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I have a Jenn Air wall oven that turned off during bake. Power is on and seems to be available to the board (red wires). I ordered a "new" control board off ********, which did not work, but it could have been a bad board from an unaware seller.
I also sent my old board into a place for repair, and they said they needed a replacement component and had no ETA so I had them send it back. That suggested the board was bad, but I am not sure if I trust them.
What should I check to verify the board is the issue? Are there any other components that could be out that would cause no display and no function?
Any help is appreciated.
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Here are your parts Parts for Jenn-Air JJW9527DDS Oven - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the tech sheet. The power that runs the control board is white to black, P1-1 to P1-3 at the control board. [COLOR="Blue"]Power is on and seems to be available to the board (red wires)[/COLOR] This is the other side of the line and is only used to run the elements. |
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Thanks. I checked and determined I had a short in the junction box since I was not getting all power to the original board. I fixed the short, and installed the original board. It turned on briefly, then would not work.
I then replaced the old board with the "new" item I purchased off ********. The board displayed and all the buttons worked, but the oven will not heat (bake, broil, etc.).
I suspect the board I bought has a bad relay and might be defective. Is it straight forward to test the board to confirm this?
Thanks.
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There is no straight forward way to check the relays on the board.
Is the TOD hi-limit thermostat OK. If open it will kill power to the bake and broil elements. Note that the convection element should still work. |
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I looked for that and could not locate it. is the TOD in another location than the other wiring (above the oven)?
Also, is there a reset on the TOD, or are they typically good or bad?
Thanks for all the help. I appreciate the guidance.
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They call it a safety switch (item 17 in section 01 of the parts). It should be attached to the back/outside of the oven caviry,
It does not look resettable. If it is it will have a button (usually red) on the back that pops out when it is open, just push it back in to reset it. |
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I checked the hi limit switch with a multimeter and it measured 0, indicating continuity. I guess it's likely the board?
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Yes that would also be my diagnosis. |
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Thanks. Weirdest thing. I took the limit switch off when I tested it and cleaned it up, then re-installed.
When I slid the oven out I undid then wiring and then temporarily wired it back up to test. The elements now work. I undid the wiring and rewired in the junction box and re-installed the oven and it works fine now.
I wonder if I had a wiring issue or somehow reset the limit. Perhaps it's an intermittent issue with the limit.
Either way, it works now. Thanks for all the help.
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