The freezer appears to be freezing water on all 3 shelves hard but I have not ever found it not running.

• Would sitting in Car-Port’s shade outside in the TX heat 70s -90s around the clock cause it to run constantly?
  
• Is testing the freezer empty causing it to run constantly?
  
• How can I tell if the freezer has a good charge vs low and causing problems?
  
• I’ll plan to test it 2-3 weeks before trusting it and monitor it close daily weeks.
  
• The eventual location will be the recessed patio that is always out of the sun.

Thank You!

Here are your parts.
You seem to be missing the last two digits of the model number so you will have to choose one from the Matching Model Numbers section.
Parts for EVL181NXTQ - AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the operators manual
http://www.whirlpool.com/digita...de%20-%201-82515-001.pdf

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.
It is the same for all revisions of this unit.

[COLOR="Blue"]3. Searching, I read the freezing problem could be the cooling coil might be restricted and not frosting even bottom to top. Investigating, I found the coil at the bottom only vs full height but circulating fan felt to be pushing air out the top vents. BUT! The coil was not frosted even bottom to top, with the bottom being heavier but all had a good frost. Could that be a problem?[/COLOR]
Sorry but I do not understand the above.
The evaporator coils should have a fairly even coting on frost on them.


[COLOR="Blue"]Would sitting in Car-Port’s shade outside in the TX heat 70s -90s around the clock cause it to run constantly?[/COLOR]
It should cycle when the temperature is in the 70's.

[COLOR="Blue"]Is testing the freezer empty causing it to run constantly?[/COLOR]
It will take much longer to reach set point temperature, perhaps a couple days.

[COLOR="Blue"]How can I tell if the freezer has a good charge vs low and causing problems?[/COLOR]
Sounds like you have does this already though from your description I am not sure that the unit is OK.
Below is a link about this problem. Check out the example pictures part way down the page.
http://www.applianceaid.com/ref...ator-not-cold-enough.php
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Do you have a link to the owner’s manual?[/COLOR]
See above

[COLOR="Blue"]I feel having the freezer set at the extreme coldest temp “empty” is possibly causing it to run constantly.[/COLOR]
You never said what the thermometer read after the unit had run for a day of so.
The freezer should be at 0 to 5 degrees F.
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I noticed the red light blinking at the bottom and wonder if that is a trouble code?[/COLOR]
No.

[COLOR="Blue"]Is there a computer board in this freezer vs sensors?[/COLOR]
No
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Without a solid seal due to feeling I’m hearing a vacuum seal, could that be a problem?[/COLOR]
Any air leak to the outside is a problem.
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The unit is young and running that makes me think I’m missing a needed service. If the unit was running initially with a proper charge and freezes now is the charge possibly not the issue?[/COLOR]
Sorry but I do not understand the above.
If the evaporator coils/frost coverage looks oK then it is not a sealed system problem.
Be sure that the compressor has run at least an hour before checking the coils. If you check them shortly after or during a defrost cycle then you may end up with the weong diagnosis.

Check/clean any vents on the front and back of the unit.
Check/clean the condenser coils under the unit.
Check the door seal. Take a two inch wide strip of paper and insert it between the frame and the seal. Then pull it out to check the seal. Work your way around the door every 6 inches or so.
Check the hinge side of the seal to be sure it is not grabbing and twisting when you close the door. If it is then a light coating of white lithium grease or vaseline usualy fixes this.

[COLOR="Blue"]I could not spot your ref as a pic showing frost on a coil but I think mine would be even since it only changes with the fins being more or less.[/COLOR]
Below are links to the pictures.
http://www.applianceaid.com/images/innificientsystem.jpg
http://www.applianceaid.com/images/364a.jpg
http://www.applianceaid.com/images/Freezer2.jpg

[COLOR="Blue"]I have only seen the thermometer at approx 15 degrees set on the coldest two days.[/COLOR]
This is too warm.

[COLOR="Blue"]Since the evaporator coils/frost coverage looks oK IMO and I am only getting down to about 15 degrees could that be saying I could be having a sealing issue?[/COLOR]
Could be but checking the seal around the doors should eliminate this as a possible cause

[COLOR="Blue"]Where is the suction coming from and how long should it last?[/COLOR]
I think the suction you see is just from the temperature/pressure difference between the freezer and ambient air. After some time this pressure equalizes through the evaporator defrost drain hole.
What you see is normal.

[COLOR="Blue"]At what temp or lowest temp would you say there is no issue with the freezer? [/COLOR]
It should be able to get down to at least 5 degrees F.

[COLOR="Blue"]Is a common wall thermometer OK for the testing and I added a 2nd to compare them as good or not?[/COLOR]
Yes it should do the job.

[COLOR="Blue"]I am not seeing a rear coil period. I feel it they are in the worm side walls that I feel.[/COLOR]
Take a look in the parts. The condenser coils are Item 28 in Section 03.
There is a possibility that the ambient temperature is just too warm so the condenser coils cannot get rid of enough heat.
I would remove the rear cover and then get a fan to blow air from the back out through the front kick plate.
If the freezer temperature drops it is a good indicator that the outside temperature is just too warm.
Be sure that the louvers are clean on the front kick plate when doing this.