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Refigerator/freezer running but isn't cold enough
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Model: KENMORE 253.61832106 Brand: Kenmore Age: 5 - 10 years
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jlinhrst  
#1 Posted : Monday, July 28, 2014 7:15:12 AM(UTC)
jlinhrst

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I have a Sears/Kenmore 25361832106. It is immaculate on the outside and the inside. No dust or debris on the coils or the compressor. The issue is this:

The freezer runs around 22 degrees and the refrigerator around 55. There are times when the compressor turns off, which leads me to believe it is a thermostat issue, but if there were the case wouldn't the freezer compartment be the correct temperature? There's no ice buildup on the back wall of the freezer and no clunking, ticking, or other noises to indicate that the compressor is struggling.

Before I start to take it apart, I wonder what direction I should consider? There seems to be very little airflow from the freezer compartment into the fridge, but if it was a damper issue, again I would think the freezer would be a very cold 0-5 degrees.
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jlinhrst  
#2 Posted : Monday, July 28, 2014 10:14:41 AM(UTC)
jlinhrst

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I have not checked continuity on the fridge temperature control unit. Would this make sense as a possible point of failure in this situation?
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denman  
#3 Posted : Monday, July 28, 2014 11:19:02 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Kenmore Refrigerator 25361832106 - AppliancePartsPros.com
[COLOR="Blue"]
I have not checked continuity on the fridge temperature control unit. Would this make sense as a possible point of failure in this situation?[/COLOR]
Yes it sounds like a thermostat problem.

Part number: AP2151609
Part number: AP2151609


I have a Sears/Kenmore 25361832106. It is immaculate on the outside and the inside. No dust or debris on the coils or the compressor. The issue is this:

[COLOR="Blue"]The freezer runs around 22 degrees and the refrigerator around 55. There are times when the compressor turns off, which leads me to believe it is a thermostat issue, but if there were the case wouldn't the freezer compartment be the correct temperature?[/COLOR]
No, not if there is a problem with the thermostat.
Depends a lot on how often it cycles.
This unit will go into a defrost cycle for 30 minutes every 8 hours of compressor run time.
So if this is the only time it is shutting off it could be a sealed system or a defrost problem.

[COLOR="Blue"]There's no ice buildup on the back wall of the freezer[/COLOR]
You have to check the evaporator coils. A defrost system problem does not always create heavy frost/ice on the inside of the freezer's back wall.
[COLOR="Blue"]
and no clunking, ticking, or other noises to indicate that the compressor is struggling.[/COLOR]
This sounds like the compressor and it's start device are OK.
It could still have a sealed system ptroblem even if the compressor sounds OK.


[COLOR="Blue"]Before I start to take it apart, I wonder what direction I should consider? [/COLOR]
Is the evaporator/freezer fan running. It should be on whenever the compressor is on.

Is the condenser/compressor fan running, also on whenever the compressor is on.

If both the above are OK.

Remove the rear cover in the freezer and inspect the evaporator coils.

If they are clogged with frost/ice, you have a defrost problem. Usually a fairly easy repair.

If there is just frost in one area (usually where the freon enters the coils) it is probably a sealed system problem. This will be an expensive repair as you need a pro. It often makes more sense to put the dollars towards a new unit.
I would check your warranty as often the sealed system has a longer warranty.

Note that before checking the coils be sure that the compressor has run for at least an hour. If you check shortly after or during a defrost cycle you could reach the wrong diagnosis.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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jlinhrst  
#4 Posted : Monday, July 28, 2014 1:32:42 PM(UTC)
jlinhrst

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[COLOR="Navy"]Is the evaporator/freezer fan running. It should be on whenever the compressor is on.[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Black"]The evaporator fan is running, and runs when the compressor is on. Again it blows cold air, just not quite cold enough.[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Navy"]
Is the condenser/compressor fan running, also on whenever the compressor is on.[/COLOR]

[COLOR="Black"]Is it possible that this unit does not have a compressor fan? I do not see one at the base of this unit and cannot find one on the parts diagram
[/COLOR]
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jlinhrst  
#5 Posted : Monday, July 28, 2014 4:39:44 PM(UTC)
jlinhrst

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Just got home and decided to take a look around the interior of the unit. Freezer is holding steady at 22 degrees, fridge at 55. I moved the defrost timer into position and heard it click into place. I waited a minute as the compressor and evaporator fan stopped, let the heater coil warm up a minute and unplugged the fridge. I could feel the heat coming off the coil even before I removed the back panel in the freezer. I removed the back panel and found no ice or heavy frost anywhere. I spun the evaporator fan with my finger and it spins evenly.

I took the upper shroud from the fridge compartment and was able to determine that there is no blockage from fridge to freezer. I looked at the temperature control unit next.

Question: Should I be able to see play inside the temperature control unit as I turn the dial from warm to cold? I see a contact close when I turn the dial to zero (off) and it opens just a bit when I turn it to one (on.) However when I turn the dial up from one (warm) to six (coldest) I cannot see any additional play in the contact although the dial turns evenly.

Again I'm wondering if the temperature control unit is the culprit as perhaps it is perpetually stuck on one (warm?)
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denman  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, July 29, 2014 2:47:24 AM(UTC)
denman

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[COLOR="Blue"]Is it possible that this unit does not have a compressor fan? I do not see one at the base of this unit and cannot find one on the parts diagram[/COLOR]
You are correct there is no condenser fan.
I must have had my head up my you know what!!!

[COLOR="Blue"]I could feel the heat coming off the coil even before I removed the back panel in the freezer. I removed the back panel and found no ice or heavy frost anywhere.[/COLOR]
The above does sound like there is not a defrost problem.
It would have been better if you had removed the evaporator cover first so you could see if the coils where iced /frosted over heavily.
Sometimes you can force a defrost but the defrost timer can stick in one position so the unit never does an automated defrost.
Another symptom for a defrost problem would be that the unit would now run OK until the frost /ice builds up again.
[COLOR="Blue"]
Question: Should I be able to see play inside the temperature control unit as I turn the dial from warm to cold?[/COLOR]
Not sure exactly where you are looking but I would say yes.

[COLOR="Blue"]Again I'm wondering if the temperature control unit is the culprit as perhaps it is perpetually stuck on one (warm?)[/COLOR]
I would do one more check and if it checks out OK I would replace the control.
After the unit has run for about an hour, remove the evaporator cover and inspect the coils.
They should have a fairly even coating of frost on them.
If there is frost in just one area (usually where the freon enters the coils) then it is a sealed system problem.
This will be an expensive repair as you need a pro, It often makes more sense to put the dollars towards a new unit.
I would check the unit's warranty as often the sealewd system has a longer warranty.

It is very important that you do not check this during or shortly after a defrost cycle as you may end up with the wtong diagnosis.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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jlinhrst  
#7 Posted : Friday, August 1, 2014 5:07:31 AM(UTC)
jlinhrst

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I've replaced the temperature control unit but still have the same symptoms of 50 degrees in the fridge and 25 degrees in the freezer. The evaporator fan is working, but is it possible it isn't running at the proper rpms?
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denman  
#8 Posted : Friday, August 1, 2014 7:18:33 AM(UTC)
denman

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[COLOR="Blue"]After the unit has run for about an hour, remove the evaporator cover and inspect the coils.
They should have a fairly even coating of frost on them.[/COLOR]

Do they have a fairly even coating of frost?

Yes it is possible that the fan is not blowing enough air but check the above first.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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jlinhrst  
#9 Posted : Sunday, August 3, 2014 10:17:49 AM(UTC)
jlinhrst

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Solved. This junker has a sealed system problem. A refrigerant leak or a stuck valve in the compressor. Beware of craigslist scams, everybody.
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