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Our appliances are 17 months old. All whirlpool gold series. Our microwave burnt up last week and now my oven is out. My wife tried the self cleaning mode yesterday for the first time. About half way through the cycle, the oven quit working. The lights doesn't work and the door is locked. After letting the unit cool, I flipped the breaker off and let it sit for a few minutes. Turned breaker back on and nothing still. I now have the breaker off and removed the oven from the wall. It is sitting in my kitchen floor with the top panel removed as well as the rear panel. I don't see but one thing on the top that looks like a fuse and it appears to be good. Its all clear and pristine looking. Where do I go from here? A shame these appliances are only 17 months old. I appreciate any help I can get.
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Your model number is incomplete so I have used WOS92EC0AE00 Here are your parts Parts for Whirlpool WOS92EC0AE00 / - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the tech sheet. It could have blown the thermal fuse (item7 in section 04). There will not be a visual indication that it has blown. With the power off remove it and check it with a meter, should be 0 ohms. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. 4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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i put a new thermal fuse in and the door unlocked and all power came back up. I thought I was in good shape. Today was the first day we needed the oven and it won't heat up. I assume the element is burnt up?
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I am assuming that the unit stays in preheat.
If the oven shows it is ready then it could be an oven sensor problem.
Does broil work?
If not then check the power at the unit.
The elements need the full 240 volts.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]
If OK check the thermal fuse (thermostat) (item 18 in section 01).
This kills power to the elements.
If OK then odds are that the control board is toast. |
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it does stay in pre heat mode. it appears to only have an upper element. Broil does not make a difference. the digital display and lights all work fine it just will not heat up
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If you cannot see the bake element on the oven floor it is probably under a cover.
Since the broil element does not work I do not thing that a burned out element is the problem. |
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Originally Posted by: denman  Your model number is incomplete so I have used WOS92EC0AE00 Here are your parts Parts for Whirlpool WOS92EC0AE00 / - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the tech sheet. It could have blown the thermal fuse (item7 in section 04). There will not be a visual indication that it has blown. With the power off remove it and check it with a meter, should be 0 ohms. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. 4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. I have the same exact problem. My oven is this model WOS92EC0AS, single wall oven. I ran the self cleaning and after 3 hours, everything went off. The door locked, unit does not turn on, control panel is off. I understand I need to probably replace the thermal fuse in the control panel, but how do I actually remove the control panel to get to the fuse?? The oven is still in my wall and I'm not really sure how to get the oven out of the wall with screws not very accessible with the door locked shut. Is there a screw somewhere for the control panel that's accessible while the oven is still in the wall?
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