Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/7/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Hello. I have a Frigidaire model FEF377BAWA range which came with my house. I am sure it is at least 5 to 10 years old if not even older than that.
It has worked fine for me in the 3 years I have lived here until just recently when the hot surface light stayed on.
I searched the net and could not find much information about my specific model. I then searched for general information about hot surface and just Frigidaire without my model and found a couple things to try which I did.
1. Shut the breaker off for 30 minutes to let the cook top "cool down". When powered back on, the light remained lit.
2. Removed the back panel of the stove and unhooked all the wires of each switch, powering the stove on individually after each being careful not to let any wires touch each other or the stove chassis. As switch was individually disconnected, the light remained lit when powered back on.
More background on this stove for whoever might be able to help me...
1. The cook top is a little dirty/marred from years of use so I can only seethe halogen of the back left burner, which is the smallest and I rarely use. This means I can not look for any type of "wire" (or something) which may lose or gain contact when heated causing that light to remain on when the switch is not.
2. The double burner in the back left switch does not have a positive off like the others do. I am not sure if this switch should have a solid off position or not, but as I mentioned during my troubleshooting, with all 5 wires of this switch disconnected, the hot surface light remained lit when the range was powered back on.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I do see this website has parts for my model so that gives me hope in ordering a replacement part!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/1/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,429
|
Unfortunantly the burner would have to be replace. The hot sensor is mounted on the burner. You can't buy just the sensor, you have to buy the whole burner. The switch, just tells the burner what to do. The sensor on the burner, tells you that the surface is hot. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/7/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Originally Posted by: kayakcrzy  Unfortunantly the burner would have to be replace. The hot sensor is mounted on the burner. You can't buy just the sensor, you have to buy the whole burner. The switch, just tells the burner what to do. The sensor on the burner, tells you that the surface is hot. Tom ApplianceEducator.com I think this makes sense that even though the switch was disconnected (or just in the off position for that matter), it would tell the light to be on. How can I determine which burner is at fault?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/1/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,429
|
The only way I could think of it is, the burner sensor would have to be ohmed out. The one that has a continuity reading accross the heat sensor, would be the bad burner. You could try this. Unplug the oven, take off the control panel, and get to the switches. Now you are doing this with the power off. On each switch there is a L1 terminal. Pull the L1 wire of one of the switches, and tape the terminal wire, because you don't want it to hit metal, because it will short out. Then plug in the oven, and see if the light goes out. If not, then it ain't that burner. Unplug the oven, put that wire back on, and then take the next burner L1 wire off, and tape it. Then turn the power back on, and see if the light cuts off. And so on. I am thinking this way might work. Let me know what you find. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/7/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Originally Posted by: kayakcrzy The only way I could think of it is, the burner sensor would have to be ohmed out. The one that has a continuity reading accross the heat sensor, would be the bad burner. You could try this. Unplug the oven, take off the control panel, and get to the switches. Now you are doing this with the power off. On each switch there is a L1 terminal. Pull the L1 wire of one of the switches, and tape the terminal wire, because you don't want it to hit metal, because it will short out. Then plug in the oven, and see if the light goes out. If not, then it ain't that burner. Unplug the oven, put that wire back on, and then take the next burner L1 wire off, and tape it. Then turn the power back on, and see if the light cuts off. And so on. I am thinking this way might work. Let me know what you find. Tom ApplianceEducator.com Hi Tom. In my first post I said that I removed all the wires from each switch individually and plugged the stove back in while the wires were disconnected. No matter which switch was disconnected, the HOT SURFACE light still came on. I had also read on here that the burner could be activated (though they all feel cold to me) so it may take some time to cool down while unplugged resulting in the light being on regardless. This said, I left the oven unplugged for 30 minutes and the light was on when plugged back in again. Any more thoughts or suggestions? Do you think this is causing me to lose a lot of electricity while I diagnose the issue?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/1/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,429
|
No, i gave you all i know!!!!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/20/2014(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
Any other suggestions on this, I am having the same problem. I did exactly what you mention took off each L1 one at a time and the light still stayed on. This surface light problem occurred after I changed out switch.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/23/2014(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
My booklet said to hit the smoothtop burner (the last one(s) used) with my fist. I may have to hit it several times, but the hot surface indicator light has been going off. Hope this helps.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/27/2017(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
Originally Posted by: lindafay13 My booklet said to hit the smoothtop burner (the last one(s) used) with my fist. I may have to hit it several times, but the hot surface indicator light has been going off. Hope this helps. I bought a new switch and tried to isolate the bad one that way. No dice. But smacking the surface? Sure enough. Just wish I'd tried that before buying the switch!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/4/2018(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
I beat my fist on the top of each burner a few times and that made the light go off. We’ll see how long that works for
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
