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Originally Posted by: jtow 1.) The Purchase: I purchased my Duet Steam Model Number WFW9500TW01 on 11/04/08.
2.) The Problem: 7/1/2011 It started getting the F35 error.
3.) The Troubleshooting: I was able to open the top of the washer and go through some of the troubleshooting that I saw online (disconnecting the hose, blowing back into the washer) which seemed to fix it for about 10 loads but then again it started SUDS / F35 non-stop. I called a local repair service and found that I needed the “analog water pressure level sensor” which apparently had been discontinued by Whirlpool and replaced with a re-engineered part.
4.) The Part needed out of stock and backordered for months: Old Part: W10156252 New Part: W10415587
The local repair service said that the part was on national backorder and according to their main supplier it had been so for 2 months. The new shipment of these parts was supposed to arrive 7/18/2011. On 7/18/2011 nobody called me to tell me whether or not they were in, so I called Whirlpool and escalated the issue with them.
5.) The call to Whirlpool: First I spoke with Emma, she confirmed the part was now on a preliminary delivery date of 7/29/11. I shared my frustrations and she transferred me to a “specialist”, who, spoke as if she was chewing her own face - her name was “Candy” from Tennessee. I knew that I wasn’t going to get anywhere with her so I escalated to her manager “Austin”. “Austin” tried or said he tried to find the part from a couple of sources but couldn’t. He said:
“Sir, in this case what we need to do is get this to our Product Review Board who may offer you a replacement unit. They will call you within 24 hours”.
6.) The call from the Whirlpool Product Review Board: The next day 7/19/2010 a woman named Tihate called me and said that I qualified for a new replacement machine. She went on to explain that it was a newer model but would still fit on my pedestals that I purchased and would be white like my old model.
6a.) One Small Thing: Tihate added that there would be a small fee for the new washer of $578.57
7.) The final resolution. I politely declined her offer. I will now wait for the part, fix the washer and sell it along with every Whirlpool, GE and Maytag appliance in my home.
My new LG washing machine will be here tomorrow, with a standard 10 year warranty which costs about $150 more than the replacement from Whirlpool.
P.S. Tihate’s direct number is 1-866-640-7146 ext 6496 I ordered part W10156252 told they redisigned part would be W10415587 at the end of July got it in 8-4-2011 put in still not working F 27 and or suds error. Repairman said new switch bad ordered new one two more weeks to get another to see if this switch will work.Any one get a replacement that works I would like to know or just keep tring till one works? UNHAPPY IN OHIO
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Joined: 8/16/2011(UTC) Posts: 1
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Originally Posted by: pterodactyl I ordered part W10156252 told they redisigned part would be W10415587 at the end of July got it in 8-4-2011 put in still not working F 27 and or suds error. Repairman said new switch bad ordered new one two more weeks to get another to see if this switch will work.Any one get a replacement that works I would like to know or just keep tring till one works? UNHAPPY IN OHIO Had the same Problem. AFTER, Replacing Our Whirlpool Duet washer, & No Help from Whirlpool. I Now Find The Part Number has been Replaced with P/N 10312527. Google the NEW Part Number. Several Places offer it @ Different Prices. Shafted in Oklahoma
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Joined: 1/4/2012(UTC) Posts: 1
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what is a F 35 code mean? Not in manual
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Joined: 4/14/2009(UTC) Posts: 45
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you could unplug your machine and shut the water off to it, open the lower panel and look for the service manual, sometimes codes are listed there. Good Luck, post again soon. BTW I don't think it's the pump if the water is actually draining out. It seems the cycle is interrupted somehow...not sure why, electrical/board issue? Idk I need more info
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My machine had the F 35 error code, so I unplugged it and ran it again without the error. It worked for a couple of loads, then happened again. Then the suds error lit. I searched YouTube and found that if you take off the bottom panel (three star screws) there is a white hand tight screw thing on the middle bottom. Unscrew it (water will drain out so have a towel handy) and pull the tray out towards you. Mine was full of coins and other kid pocket stuff (small beads). Once clean (look in the tube before you screw it back in for additional stuff), the machine runs great. It took me about five minutes and saved me a repair bill certainly.
Best Wishes, Clean in San Diego
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Purchased washer in Aug. 2008. I had my first F35 a few years ago, maybe 2011. A new pressure sensor fixed the problem back then. I just had another Suds/F35 code so I purchased a new pressure sensor. That did not fix the problem($85). I cleaned all lines, drains, air traps and inlet hoses and that did not fix the suds/f35 code. I then called a repair man who changed the pressure sensor with one he brought over, that did not fix the problem. He called all of his contacts and no one knew what to do next. I paid him 50 dollars to leave my house. I noticed that the soap dispenser motor was not turning like it should at every start up so that pointed to the main control board or the motor it self. I read that the next step to fix the suds problem was to change the steam board. That did not fix the problem($180). I just called to order the main board and it will not be in for a few days. I then thought to take a look at the board itself since I have a little experience with electronic components. It turns out that the two 2200uF 10V capacitors were bad, their tops were a little bubbled up and leaking a very very little brown stuff. I drove to Fry's and spend 4 dollars for two capacitors, removed the old ones and soldered the new ones in. I went with 2200uF 25V caps since that is what Fry's had available. Once installed with the new pressure sensor and steam board the washer WORKED!! I then switch back to the old steam board and old pressure sensor and the washer worked.
So in conclusion I fixed my washer for under 5 dollars but spent around 350 to do it after several people told me to buy a cheap washer and be done with it including the owner of the parts place I used to buy the parts.
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I had the same f35 error. I cleaned the trap below the drum and found a bunch of crap, but still got the f35. I replaced the pressure sensor ($80) and still had the f35 error. I then blew through the hose that attaches to the pressure sensor (not into the pressure sensor). I had to blow rather hard to get it to clear, but it did pop clear. I had blown on it before ordering the pressure sensor, but was afraid to blow too hard and I was not sure it was supposed to be able to be blown through easily. Put it all back together and it works great again.
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Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 11,699
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Great, glad that worked out and thanks for the info. Experiences like this hellp everyone.
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Joined: 2/3/2011(UTC) Posts: 7
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Originally Posted by: ben240z Purchased washer in Aug. 2008. I had my first F35 a few years ago, maybe 2011. A new pressure sensor fixed the problem back then. I just had another Suds/F35 code so I purchased a new pressure sensor. That did not fix the problem($85). I cleaned all lines, drains, air traps and inlet hoses and that did not fix the suds/f35 code. I then called a repair man who changed the pressure sensor with one he brought over, that did not fix the problem. He called all of his contacts and no one knew what to do next. I paid him 50 dollars to leave my house. I noticed that the soap dispenser motor was not turning like it should at every start up so that pointed to the main control board or the motor it self. I read that the next step to fix the suds problem was to change the steam board. That did not fix the problem($180). I just called to order the main board and it will not be in for a few days. I then thought to take a look at the board itself since I have a little experience with electronic components. It turns out that the two 2200uF 10V capacitors were bad, their tops were a little bubbled up and leaking a very very little brown stuff. I drove to Fry's and spend 4 dollars for two capacitors, removed the old ones and soldered the new ones in. I went with 2200uF 25V caps since that is what Fry's had available. Once installed with the new pressure sensor and steam board the washer WORKED!! I then switch back to the old steam board and old pressure sensor and the washer worked.
So in conclusion I fixed my washer for under 5 dollars but spent around 350 to do it after several people told me to buy a cheap washer and be done with it including the owner of the parts place I used to buy the parts. So I have the same 'SUD' then F35 code so many have posted. I guess I need to access the pressure switch and tube. Since my units are stacked, I assume to access the pressure switch I need to take the dryer off the top of the washer and open the TOP of the washer, right? I will start with blowing in the tube then replacing the pressure switch.
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