Do you have 240 volts from L1 to L2 at the unit's terminal strip.

Note that you can read 120 at L1 and L2 to Neutral and still have only half the line (120).

Your heating element resistance looks OK but did you check for a grounded element.
Unplug the unit and both wires at the heater,.
Measure across the heater, you should see your 9.3 ohms.
Then measure from each side of the heater to the case, both should be infinite ohms if not the heater is grounded and should be replaced.

Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool CEDS832VQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

Just to be 100% sure that it is not a vent problem I would try the following.
Unplug the unit and disconnect it from the vent system.
Now try a run.
If it now dries OK odds are the vent system needs checking/cleaning.
Be sure to check that the louvers on the outside of the house open correctly.

If you do not want any lint in the house.
Take a pair of pantyhose.
Put one leg into the other and then attach this to the dryer's vent.
Leave enough room so the pantyhose can balloon out like a windsock.

Both the above will let you check the temperature and the air flow.

If the above makes no difference.
Unplug the unit and set the timer to high heat timed dry mid cycle.
Now measure from C on the timer to the centrifugal switch side of the heater.
You should get your 9.3 ohms.
Here we are trying to see if a thermostat or timer contact set has a resistance and is lowering the voltage to the heater.

If OK then I would replace the cycling thermostat on the bower assembly as that is the most likely cause.
If you have a fairly rapid response thermometer you could check your exhaust temperature.
On high heat the cycling thermostat should open at about 155 degrees F and then reclose at 130 degrees F.

Yes that would also be my conclusion.