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gfdunn2  
#1 Posted : Saturday, April 19, 2014 9:44:17 PM(UTC)
gfdunn2

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My dishwasher hasn't been draining properly. I ran the drain with the door open and noticed lots of water coming back up into the tub from under the sprayer arm. I ended up disassembling the pump assembly (#311 on the motor-pump assembly diagram) and found that the solenoid-controlled flapper in the housing pump that switches between drain and wash does't close completely when the solenoid actuates -- the valve is still open to the sprayer outlet by about 1/8 inch. As far as I can tell, both the solenoid assembly and the valve are in good condition, so I'm not sure why they aren't playing well together or which part needs to be repaired or replaced.

Attached picture shows the gap.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
gfdunn2 attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
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gfdunn2  
#2 Posted : Saturday, April 19, 2014 9:57:37 PM(UTC)
gfdunn2

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Here's a picture of the state of the solenoid when the gap is there.
gfdunn2 attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
gfdunn2  
#3 Posted : Saturday, April 19, 2014 10:02:09 PM(UTC)
gfdunn2

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One more picture... If I push down on the black part, the flapper will close all the way, but there is now a gap between the solenoid arm and the slot in the black piece. I actually tried bending the solenoid arm down to close the gap, but then it doesn't clear the black piece when the solenoid is released.
gfdunn2 attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
denman  
#4 Posted : Monday, April 21, 2014 3:40:06 AM(UTC)
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I do not know what is the cause of this but can give you some general info.

The way the wash/drain works is as follows.
The solenoid is powered on for a couple seconds of a drain cycle.
This pulls it down and moves the flapper to the drain position.
The water pressure then keeps it there until the unit is empty (no water pressure) and then the springs pull the flapper back to the wash position.

If the solenoid gets power for too long it will overheat and melt the plastic in the solenoid which is why it is only powered for a few seconds.

So it is my feeling that the water pressure should close the flapper all the way when in a drain cycle even if the solenoid does not fully close the flapper.
You could check this by marking the metal plate where the solenoid arm (black plastic) is positioned when you manually close the flapper al the way.
Then reinstall it and run a cycle.
If the arm then aligns with the mark you know the flapper is closing all the way.

You could also just try pushing the the arm down during a drain to see if that gives a better drain.

I am assuming that you have checked the rubber seal around the outside edge of the flapper and it is OK.
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gfdunn2  
#5 Posted : Monday, April 21, 2014 4:10:10 AM(UTC)
gfdunn2

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Thanks for the advice, I'll try out your suggestions (maybe not until next weekend, though).

When I push the flapper up manually, it appears to make a good seal. You can see from the picture, though, that it is a bit wavy on the front edge; I'll check that further, too.
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