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Hi all, new to the forum. Recently bought a used Whirlpool gas dryer (MOD: GGW9200LW0). The previous owner had converted it to LP since he was on a tank. I am on city utilities and have natural gas directly into the house. Therefore, I need to convert my dryer back to the original configuration for natural gas. Most of the information I've found on the internet is for converting TO LP.
Two questions:
1. Called Sears and told them the situation. Lady on the phone indicated that all I needed was the correct orifice, which I ordered. Is this correct? Do I need to replace any other parts?
2. I haven't been able to find any directions on how to do this. Manuals are included with the LP conversion kit but that doesn't help me much. Anyone have a link or reference on how to install?
Thanks!
-Kyle
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See the attachment for the LP kit install. The NG orifice should be a #54. |
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Thanks for the attachment, I was able to remove the orifice last night. Do you have any comment on whether or not I need to replace the blocking pin with a new limiter? I double checked with Sears and they said no, but just want to be extra sure.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Thanks, I came to a similar conclusion as well. I went ahead and ordered the limiter, regulator, and spring. Not sure if I'll need all of those parts, but figured better safe than sorry. I'll update my thread with the results for anyone doing a similar conversion in the future.
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kyle, I am in the process of changing back to NG and I also find no info and no kit available to convert back. I bought the orifice but don't know what else I need. What did you figure out?
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idaboui,
Here's what I think, although I could be wrong. When the dryer is converted to propane the blocking pin is important as it can be a very dangerous situation if your propane pressure is too high.
It seems like when going back to natural gas, this is less of a concern. Perhaps because natural gas is usually from the utility company at a prescribed pressure, I don't really know. Again, these are just my speculations, but I think this is why you can get away with just swapping out orifices.
I ended up ordering the limiter, regulator and spring from Sears. Although it might not have been necessary (and it is more expensive) it made me feel better to know I had the parts that the designers intended installed correctly. I've had the dryer working for 6 months now with no issues.
Good luck!
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Thanks for the info. It must not be that common to convert back as there are no kits and even the repair service techs are not that sure in my area.
I might just try changing the orifice and see how it burns. Not sure if it will be worth the cost to change out the other parts. Damn orifice was $70. How much did you spend on parts?
Thanks. Bob
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Don't know why my link got auto-edited. Part #: 234826 on the sears parts direct website is the one I ended up buying.
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