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[COLOR="Blue"]The Motor was another issue. The readings at the 5M ( White ) and 4M ( Blue ) posts were 2.2Ω at the 20kΩ setting, and 1 at the lower settings. I also bothered to measure the 6M ( Black ) post. That read 0Ω at the lowest setting.[/COLOR]
At the very least, the 5M wire needs to be replaced. But the 4M reading indicates I FRIED THE MOTOR.
Not sure what is going on hear.
5M should be 0 ohms.
Circuit path is 5M to NO on start switch to CO on start switch to BG timer contacts to Y timer contact to L1.
The 4M reading looks OK as it is the two motor winding resistances in parallel usually an ohm or two.
It is the 6M reading is OK, it should be ) ohms but I cannot see why it is not the same as the 5M reading. Circuit path is 5M to NO start switch to C) start switch to 6M basically they are the same test point.
[COLOR="Blue"]Is it possible to get by with a new Motor Switch, or throw in the towel?[/COLOR]
I looked up both possible switches and neither is available so the motor has to be replaced. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/3/2014(UTC)
Posts: 9
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Thanks, Denman!
Yup, agreeing with what you just posted, I tested the 5M / NO White wire last night and it indeed needs replacement. Rather obvious as it was the most damaged. El Cheapo thought he could tape it up. The 6M / CO wire, the other one also damaged, was spliced and tested fine. The readings at the Motor posts bother me though. According to the meter, they tested at 2,200Ω yesterday. The tests at the two lowest settings indicated 1, out of range.
Yes, I learned yesterday that the Switches are sold with the Motor. What started as a simple fix is turning into an expensive boondoggle.
So, clarify if you may: When the 5M and 6M wires shorted and burned at the Heating Body, the current went straight to the Motor and not back to the Starter Switch as that was the direction of flow. The only reason the dryer was still running when I pulled the plug is that once the Motor is started, the other ( Centrifugal? ) Switch takes over and the windings continue to roll. Once shut off, the Motor cannot get reconnected because the short is resisting connection at the 5M post?
I can't believe I didn't pull those wires back away from the Heater before closing the Cabinet ... it seems the Blower Duct, missing its Seal, literally blew those two wires straight into the Heater. Good Grief.
Well, accidents happen. Even stupid expensive ones.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/3/2014(UTC)
Posts: 9
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Y'know, I really got to get a handle on how to use my Multimeter.
I guess 2.2Ω in the 2000 range was OK, because once I replaced the 5M wire, the bastid started right up. Not just that, but all cycles, Heater, Buzzer, whole kit kaboodle.
I'm a Happy Hippy again, mebbe a little wiser.
Denman, Many Thanks. You helped a lot here. Just ordered a Lint Seal 'cuz ours was completely gone.
At the end of the day, The Workhorse is back. And I found my drill bit ta boot!
:D
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