Take off the front panel and check and clean out the drain hose coming from the tub to the pump and then the hose leaving the pump. It could be something is caught in there.

Then operate the machine with the front panel off and observe the rate of spin. Let us know if it is spinning slowly and we can offer some suggestions.

Well darn, was hoping it was a blockage.

There is no clutch on this model, but if the problem is not blockage there are a lot of possibilities. It could be that the belt is stretched, it could be that the idler spring has sprung, it can be the brakes, which release the tub to spin, are sticking and it can be the transmission. An experienced Maytag repair person should have been able to check all of those.

See if you can rule out or rule in the belt or the idler spring and tension on the belt. If so then I suggest replacement, as your repair money is better spent on a new basic top loader. If it is the belt or spring or tension in some manner that should be an easy and relatively inexpensive fix.

Sorry, should be "from what my husband can tell"

Thank you.

Sorry, I misspoke. I have been reading and looking at posts all morning. I went back and rechecked, it was not a clutch.

My husband says the belt is on correctly, as is the idler spring. He replaced the triple lip seal and bearing last April. It fixed the problem of it sounding like a jet engine while it was spinning.
The washer worked like new.

It almost seems like it is not engaging in the spin cycle to spin fast. Could it be the brake rotor?

Please forgive so many questions.

Thank you for your replies.

I don't think a video will help.

But I think you have narrowed it down to the brakes are not releasing or the transmission is broken. Since it will spin but slowly it is indeed possible the brakes are the issue and if your husband is handy enough to change out the seal he should be able to change out the brakes and related parts. I cannot link you to the service manual so here is some info from the service manual.

Drive Pulley, Helix and Brake

1. Remove outer tub, see Outer Tub” procedure.

2. Remove screw, washer and helix securing drive pulley
to input shaft and transmission assembly.

NOTE: When reinstalling pulley, place a small amount of
No. 03200P Lubricant on top side of the drive
pulley that will be contacting large flat washers.
Lubricate helix ramps and bore with a small
amount of No. 03200P Lubricant.

3. Lift drive pulley up and off input shaft of transmission
assembly

NOTE: When reinstalling pulley, place a small amount of
No. 03200P Lubricant on top side of the drive
pulley that will be contacting large flat washers.
Lubricate helix ramps and bore with a small
amount of No. 03200P Lubricant.
DO NOT OVER LUBRICATE! Excess lubricant
can be thrown into pivot dome area during normal
washer operation. Any lubricant on pivot dome,
base or friction ring will affect washer operation.
This condition will persist until lubricant is
removed.

4. Remove bolts securing brake pads and brake
assembly to weldment assembly. Remove brake
assembly and pads off bottom of weldment assembly.
NOTE: When reinstalling brake assembly, replace all
three brake pads. DO NOT replace worn pads
only. Apply a small amount of No. 26594P
Silicone Lubricant to both sides of each brake
pad where it will contact brake assembly.
DO NOT OVER LUBRICATE! Excess lubricant
can be thrown into pivot dome area during normal
washer operation. Any lubricant on pivot dome,
base or friction ring will affect washer operation.
This condition will persist until lubricant is
removed.

5. After brake is installed, put washer through the
following check to verify brake is operating properly.
a. Turn off electrical power to washer.
b. Turn drive pulley one complete revolution in
agitation directly, then push drive pulley up against
brake.
c. Check for a .030 (.76 mm) minimum gap between
drive pulley and helix ramp surfaces.

NOTE: If gap is less than .030 (.76 mm), brake may not
stop washtub from spinning in required seven
seconds because brake will not close properly.
d. Turn on electrical power to washer and start
washer in the final spin operation.

NOTE: After installing complete tub module in washer
and all hoses have been reconnected, add at
least one quart of water to washtub to lubricate
pump seals. Running a pump without water
will ruin the seals.

After washtub has been spinning for two
minutes, normal spin speed should be
427 ± 25 RPM SLOW speed and 640 ± 25 RPM
FAST speed on one and two speed models; or
473 ± 25 RPM on SLOW speed and
710 ± 25 RPM on FAST speed on some two
speed models and all three speed models. Three
speed models never spin on the lowest speeds. If
not, the cause could be dragging brake pads. If
problems occur with steps (c) or (d), remove
brake assembly and correct problem.



[/FONT]