Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/20/2014(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Ok so everything going great and one day dishwasher was no longer steaming clean. I look at the lower heating element and its cracked in two. So I ordered a new heating element from sears direct I replaced it and I still have no heat. I then reviewed it on the net and some say the thermostat could also have to be replaced so that's what i did and I'm still with no heat. I pulled the door down and reviewed the wiring harness and board, nothing appears burnt, damaged, or out of the ordinary.
Could someone give me some idea as to what my problem may really be?
I know I didn't buy the heating element in vain as it was clearly toast but what else could it be? I will say my washer was installed off cold side which worked great until that one day. I'm thinking the extreme cold temps we have recently had killed it as it had to warm extremely cold water. I have not had the washer but just a little over a year, bought at lowes.
I appreciate any and all assistance as I have a fired up old lady and need help asap.....
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/16/2014(UTC)
Posts: 55
|
check to see if you have 120v to the element; if not, check for voltage to the element; if not, check for it coming out of the board. if voltage does not come from the board, it is the board. if voltage does not cross the thermostat, it is the thermostat. if there is power across the element, it is the element. if voltage comes from one component, but does not make it to another it is the wiring between them.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/20/2014(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
does anyone have a wiring diagram for my model to test these items properly?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/20/2014(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
also, how do you test a dishwasher as to pull it out I have to disconnect the power source, i have to pull it out as the heating element terminals are in the back? If I pulll it out and then reconnect power I then have no water source in which case I run it w/o water being put through the pump..I just don't want to do more damage trying to figure it out.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
Here are your parts Parts for Whirlpool WDF530PLYW3 / - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for a tech sheet. It is for a WDF530PLW1, the closest I could find to your model number. It is likely the same as yours but I cannot guarantee this. With the power removed from the unit check across P4-4 to P4-3. Should be about 25 ohms. This is this checks the heatyer circuit including it's wiring. Check across P12-3 to P12-1 should be about 50,000 ohms. This is the temperature sensor. You may have to disconnect the plug and check is as the electronics on the board may skew the reading. If both are OK tthen I would say that the board is toast. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/20/2014(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Thanks DENMAN...I'll write back once i shake it down.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/20/2014(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Ok so both gave a resistance as high as 8.0 as low as 6.0 its resistance was moving around the whole time within those numbers. So I guess this means the board is fried? There isn't a possibly of the heating element being faulty even though its brand new, whirlpool part. I'm not excited about testing that though because I have to pull the unit out to get to the terminals.
If it is the board how does it come off the door? I see no clips and no screws?
Could this have been caused because it was installed to run off the cold side only as manual says install off hot side. I didn't do the install but just wondering if that caused problem as I don't want it to come back for that if possible, again I'd rather not swap cold to hot but its better than another board and element down the road.
In reviewing the schematic troubleshooting docs it says on page 2 if their is an issue in the heating process the control unit will disable heating until it is cleared? What is the proper way to clear the codes to see if this problem returns or did I read it wrong?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
[COLOR="Blue"]Ok so both gave a resistance as high as 8.0 as low as 6.0 its resistance was moving around the whole time within those numbers. So I guess this means the board is fried? There isn't a possibly of the heating element being faulty even though its brand new, whirlpool part. I'm not excited about testing that though because I have to pull the unit out to get to the terminals.[/COLOR]
Something is weird with the above readings.
Especially the thermistor reading. it should thousands of ohms.
[COLOR="Blue"]If it is the board how does it come off the door? I see no clips and no screws?[/COLOR]
I do not know as I have never pulled one apart.
The tech sheet does show several clips holding it.
[COLOR="Blue"]
Could this have been caused because it was installed to run off the cold side only as manual says install off hot side. [/COLOR]
Sorry but I do not understand the above.
Are you referring to the water supply?
[COLOR="Blue"]
What is the proper way to clear the codes to see if this problem returns or did I read it wrong?[/COLOR]
Looks like starting the diagnostics will clear all error codes.
Also removing power from the unit for a couple minutes should clear/reset the board. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/20/2014(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Something is weird with the above readings.
Especially the thermistor reading. it should thousands of ohms.
??
I do not know as I have never pulled one apart.
The tech sheet does show several clips holding it.
ok thanks
Are you referring to the water supply?
yes water supply is coming from cold source only
Looks like starting the diagnostics will clear all error codes.
Also removing power from the unit for a couple minutes should clear/reset the board.
Ok thanks
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
[COLOR="Blue"]Are you referring to the water supply?
yes water supply is coming from cold source only[/COLOR]
This would be a bad setup as it would cause the heater to run for too long.
All dishwashers that I am familiar with recommend not only hot water but also specify that the water should be at least 120 degrees F. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
