Your compressor ohms readings are too high. The top compressor pin is common, bottom left start, bottom right, run. Measure ohms between the top and either bottom pin, should be around 6 ohms. Also, check any pin to ground to see if you have a short to ground.
Measure across the ptc device output pins, should be 5- 7 ohms.
If ok, you can try a Supco hard start kit on this, might start the compressor.

Thanks very much for the responses. Are these the type of readings that would fall in what I suspect is the wide range of readings one finds with shorted windings?

Looks like the PTC reading is in the ballpark, but the compressor readings are off, at least compared to the FR8.5G, which I found listed as a 240V compressor (but I couldn't on my own find anything on the FR8.5 G winding resistances). I couldn't find anything on FR8.5A.

There are no shorts from the compressor pins to ground.

On my compressor there are two pins on top and one pin on the bottom, with line connections to top left and bottom, and PTC connecting top left and top right. I think bottom is common, top left is run, top right is start. If I'm right this would give CR 1.1 Ohms, RS 17.9 Ohms, and SC 18.8 Ohms. Using the standard calculations (R 1.1 Ohms, S 18.8 Ohms, and R + S 17.9 Ohms), those readings are inconsistent with good windings. If I assume a short between the run and start windings producing a parallel resistance F to common, then the equations R+F+1.1, S+F=18.8, and R+S=17.9 would give F 1.0 Ohms, R 0.1 Ohms, and S 17.8 Ohms, where R and S are the un-shorted portions of the windings connected to the terminal pins.

In my ignorance, I suppose there is some way failed internal thermal protection could play into this, but I suspect winding damage is the most probable explanation of the observed resistance windings. Bottom line, keeps looking like the compressor is toast.

Thanks again.

I just have the regular old 9V ohmmeter. Sounds like my best bet is to replace the refrigerator. Thanks again everyone for all the help.