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ldennison61074@yahoo.com  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, March 12, 2014 10:00:15 AM(UTC)
ldennison61074@yahoo.com

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Dryer will not heat - this started as intermittent. Most of the time it worked as it should, but I began finding wet clothes at the end of the cycle. Frustrated, I would play around with the Fabric Selector switch and the Timer. The dryer would heat and dry as expected for that cycle. (I know, I should have been trying one thing at a time). It got so it was harder to get it to do this, and now, of course, there is no heat ever. My husband has done the test suggested on all of the forums I have been reading and he has found that he has no continuity from L2 to 1. Is this likely the switch? We can't find the switch for sale any where. Any ideas?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, March 13, 2014 3:38:02 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Amana LEA50AW / PLEA50AW - AppliancePartsPros.com

Below is a link to a service manual. You will have to join the site and be logged in to be able to download the manual.
http://appliancejunk.com...wnloads;sa=view;down=404
[COLOR="Blue"]
he has found that he has no continuity from L2 to 1[/COLOR]
I am not sure where he is measuring.

The wiring diagram is on page 11-6 in the service manual.

The first thing to check is the power.
Just because you have been able to get heat in the past by messing with the switches does not mean that this is part of your current problem.
So it is best to check the power befor stating to tear the unit apart.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]

If the power is OK.
Set the unit to mid cycle, high heat, timed dry.
Turn it on to be sure that you do not have heat.
If there is no heat then unplug the unit.
Use the most sensitive resistance scale on the meter and short the meter leads together before starting the measurements so you can see if there is a zero offset in the meter.

Attach one meter lead to L1 and leave it there.
You could tape to L1 on the power cord plug.
Now work your way back through the heater circuit.
L2 at the timer should be 0 ohms
H at the timer should be 0 ohms.
L1 at the fabric selector switch should be 0 ohms
Connector 2 at the fabric selector switch should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the cycling thermostat should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the thermal fuse should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the high limit thermostat should be 0 ohms
One side of the heater should be 0 ohms, the other side should be around 10 ohms.
Connection 1 at the motors centrifugal switch should be around 10 ohms.

There you have now checked the entire heating circuit except for the centrifugal switch and the wiring from it to L2 at the power cord plug.

If you have problems following the circuit just print out page 11-6 and mark the circuit with a red pencil.
Page 11-5 does give a timing chart but it is a bit of a pain to read.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
ldennison61074@yahoo.com  
#3 Posted : Sunday, March 16, 2014 9:58:31 PM(UTC)
ldennison61074@yahoo.com

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Thank you, VERY much. My brother came over and followed your instructions. It took a bit, but, based on finding no reading from L1 at the power cord to L1 on the fabric selector switch, he checked the orange cord that runs between and found a loose connection on the timer. Tightened the crimp, problem solved. WOW!
denman  
#4 Posted : Monday, March 17, 2014 1:20:39 AM(UTC)
denman

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You are welcome.

And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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