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GE Profile Electric Cooktop/Range Losing Heat Options  Email this topic  Watch this topic  Print this topic » Normal Threaded
Model: 191D1414	Brand: GE	Age: More than 10 years
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tabcourt		#11 Posted : Sunday, May 3, 2009 6:22:04 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 5/3/2009(UTC) Posts: 16		Thanks for your help. I will respond with the info tomorrow. Evening as it is late and I have work tomorrow.
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tabcourt		#12 Posted : Monday, May 4, 2009 3:21:38 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 5/3/2009(UTC) Posts: 16		Okay, Applianceman, I am starting the process. I have placed a covered stainless steel stockpot (12qt) full of cold water on the large burner and set control to high. Burner behaves thusly: red for 4-5 seconds, dark for about 7 seconds, repeat. Started the pot at 7:00pm eastern time. Will post again whem it boils
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tabcourt		#13 Posted : Monday, May 4, 2009 5:39:28 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 5/3/2009(UTC) Posts: 16		Sorry, couldn't complete mission. My wife called and I had to leave the house due to her having a flat tire. Had to shut off the cooktop. Just got back (9:40pm). Will try again tomorrow evening.
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applianceman		#14 Posted : Tuesday, May 5, 2009 1:25:50 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 3/28/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,648		If it were only staying red for that long I would say it would almost have to be the switches. I wouldn’t have hesitated to say this at first but it was the fact that all of them were doing the same thing is what threw me off.
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tabcourt		#15 Posted : Tuesday, May 5, 2009 3:40:26 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 5/3/2009(UTC) Posts: 16		Thanks, so now the obvious question: can I replace the switches myself or do I need to have a service call?
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tabcourt		#16 Posted : Tuesday, May 5, 2009 4:53:42 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 5/3/2009(UTC) Posts: 16		Finally found the model # It is JSP38G0V1BB
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applianceman		#17 Posted : Tuesday, May 5, 2009 6:16:30 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 3/28/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,648		You should replace one (the one you were using when you tested for me) and see what happens because as I said it is unlikely that all went bad at once. Don’t get me wrong I think this is your problem but play it safe. To replace the switch first unplug the range. Then look on the back of the old switch you should see terminals marked with letters. You can either draw a diagram of which wires go were and unplug them or you can take the switch off mount the new switch and pull the wires off one at a time and plug them on the same terminal. The latter is what I recommend. There is nothing hard about this if you are comfortable working with electrical wires. Hope this helps!! for more on do-it-yourself appliance repair visit Appliance Repair Guide For All Major Home Appliances
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tabcourt		#18 Posted : Wednesday, May 6, 2009 3:19:31 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 5/3/2009(UTC) Posts: 16		Thanks for sticking with me on this. I hate to be a dunce, but in your reply you say to look at the back of the switch. I don't even know where the switch is in the first place. Is it on the back of the unit or do I have to lift the cooktop glass?
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applianceman		#19 Posted : Wednesday, May 6, 2009 5:59:58 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 3/28/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,648		The switch I am referring to is the one you turn the unit on with. Behind the control panel that the knobs are mounted to you should see the switches. The back of the control panel should come off to get to the back of the switches. Again if you don’t feel comfortable doing this repair call a repairman. I always encourage do-it-yourselfers but you know what your are comfortable with and what you are not.
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tabcourt		#20 Posted : Wednesday, May 6, 2009 6:15:23 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 5/3/2009(UTC) Posts: 16		Okay, so to continue with my spoon-feeding, can you suggest where I can buy the part? And if you know what the "offiical" name for the part? Thanks.
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