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dh1200s  
#171 Posted : Tuesday, March 4, 2014 7:24:26 AM(UTC)
dh1200s

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I'm going to post this so folks that perform a Clutch Pulley One-way bearing and Upper One-Way bearing ring clean up and relube are on borrowed time before DC/UC unbalance errors return.

Replacing the clutch pulley or cleaning up and relubing the Upper One-Way Bearings used in what I call the 1st generation Outer Tub design of FAV6800A's or FAV9800A's which uses the Upper One-Way Bearing is a temp fix to unbalance errors in spin cycle ditto for or what I call the 2nd generation Outer Tub design. That design has the Upper One Bearing ring functionality integrated into a lower outer tub bearing assembly i.e. a CSK207 bearing type........no Upper One-Way Bearing ring above the Clutch Pulley.

The longer lasting fix is do a Outer Tub rebuild. A minimum rebuild would just be to replace the Tub Seal and Tranny O-ring. If the machine sounds like a freight train coming down the tracks then a complete Outer Tub rebuild is called for. By that I mean Outer Tub bearings and Spinner Support bearings.

See this rebuild thread;
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/167669-fav6800a-fav9800a-outer-tub-bearing-replacement.html

This rebuild is not for everyone skill set and downtime factor in.

I knew nothing about the machine before I dove in. I pick up throw away machines and used parts cheap and will extend the useful life of the machine way past it's poor design. Search dh1200s in the search box for other failure issues I have commented on for the machine.

Good luck to everyone with your new machines and I hope the new machines provide years of reliable operation....Dick
dh1200s  
#172 Posted : Tuesday, March 4, 2014 7:43:45 AM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Originally Posted by: joelgriffiths Go to Quoted Post
I have a series 13 washer with the unbalanced load symptoms. When I disassembled the clutch, I found the spring bent completely out of shape.


Can you tell me if your FAV6800A series machine has the Upper One-Way bearing ring above the Clutch Pulley?


See the first several post at the start of this thread with pics dated 12-28-2009, 12:45 PM

Dick
joelgriffiths  
#173 Posted : Tuesday, March 4, 2014 9:12:28 AM(UTC)
joelgriffiths

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Thanks for responding.

I read through that quite thoroughly and removed and reattached the clutch four times now. It looks just like item 5 in the outer tub breakaway diagram (05-Outer Tub parts for Maytag FAV6800AWW - AppliancePartsPros.com) without the plastic part directly below part 21 (Jam Nut). Is that what you mean by the "Upper One-Way bearing ring"? I've seen that mentioned several times, but it doesn't have a separate itemization code on the clutch assembly so I wasn't sure if that was it or not.

I've straightened out the spring's kinks and the clutch seems to be operating quite nicely with a thorough cleaning and new grease. When it spins CCW, the lifter assembly rotate briefly, then locks in place for the spin cycle. When it moves CW, the lifter assemblies AND the tub spin slowly. Despite that, it seems to get thrown off balance CW. It spins nicely during the CCW spin cycle (once I get the clothes distributed evenly). It still seems to have trouble getting the clothes evenly distributed at first though. Is it supposed to rotate the tub while it's distributing the load in the CW direction?

Anyways, I'm at a loss. The clutch looks like it's operating normally, but the load is still unbalanced and I still get a DC error code more often than not.
joelgriffiths attached the following image(s):
IMG_20140304_050352-small.jpg
IMG_20140304_050358-small.jpg
DB App.  
#174 Posted : Tuesday, March 4, 2014 3:02:31 PM(UTC)
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Hi, You say grease in your post. If you did use grease in the one way roller clutch, that is part of the problem. Only light oil or WD 40 seems to let the clutch sprag lock right away. You mention the lifter moves (paddles?), then the tub begins its spin cycle. This is an indication of the one way clutch not instantly grabbing. ( applying). This puts the clothes on one side of the drum, and then the unit can't recover from its own mistake. FWIW.... Dave
dh1200s  
#175 Posted : Tuesday, March 4, 2014 3:26:16 PM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Originally Posted by: joelgriffiths Go to Quoted Post
Thanks for responding.

I read through that quite thoroughly and removed and reattached the clutch four times now. It looks just like item 5 in the outer tub breakaway diagram (05-Outer Tub parts for Maytag FAV6800AWW - AppliancePartsPros.com) without the plastic part directly below part 21 (Jam Nut). Is that what you mean by the "Upper One-Way bearing ring"? I've seen that mentioned several times, but it doesn't have a separate itemization code on the clutch assembly so I wasn't sure if that was it or not.

I've straightened out the spring's kinks and the clutch seems to be operating quite nicely with a thorough cleaning and new grease. When it spins CCW, the lifter assembly rotate briefly, then locks in place for the spin cycle. When it moves CW, the lifter assemblies AND the tub spin slowly. Despite that, it seems to get thrown off balance CW. It spins nicely during the CCW spin cycle (once I get the clothes distributed evenly). It still seems to have trouble getting the clothes evenly distributed at first though. Is it supposed to rotate the tub while it's distributing the load in the CW direction?

Anyways, I'm at a loss. The clutch looks like it's operating normally, but the load is still unbalanced and I still get a DC error code more often than not.



Quote:
It looks just like item 5 in the outer tub breakaway diagram (05-Outer Tub parts for Maytag FAV6800AWW - AppliancePartsPros.com) without the plastic part directly below part 21 (Jam Nut). Is that what you mean by the "Upper One-Way bearing ring"?
Yes that is correct.

Great feed back so you do not have the Upper One-Bearing Bearing ring installed above your Clutch Pulley correct?. If so I call your outer tub design the 2nd generation design where the that Upper One-way bearing ring function has been moved to the Lower Outer Tub bearing.

That One Bearing in the Lower Outer Tub bearing assembly prevents the spinner support shaft attached to the Wash Basket from rotating CW during Clutch Pulley CW rotation the wash/agitate cycle, but allows the wash basket to rotate CCW with CCW Clutch Pulley rotation the Spin Cycle.

The Upper One-Way bearing ring in 1st gen Outer Tubs has that functionality.

So your wash basket is rotating slow CW rotation in the wash/agitate cycle and throws DC unbalance errors but operates normal in the Spin Cycle? Is that correct?

If so the only way to get the machine back to normal operation is to replace that Lower Outer tub bearing with a CSK207 bearing and some shims............an outer Tub rebuild.

In this post http://forum.appliancepartspros...bearing-replacement.html

You will find info on how to replace that bearing assembly.

I'm at work with limited time to respond but will try to help if you decide to repair the machine.

Dick
joelgriffiths  
#176 Posted : Tuesday, March 4, 2014 3:28:03 PM(UTC)
joelgriffiths

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Originally Posted by: DB App. Go to Quoted Post
If you did use grease in the one way roller clutch, that is part of the problem. Only light oil or WD 40 seems to let the clutch sprag lock right away.

I initially used light oil and WD40. When that didn't work, I switched to red grease since somebody mentioned using it in an earlier post to good results.

Originally Posted by: DB App. Go to Quoted Post
You mention the lifter moves (paddles?), then the tub begins its spin cycle. This is an indication of the one way clutch not instantly grabbing. ( applying). This puts the clothes on one side of the drum, and then the unit can't recover from its own mistake. FWIW.... Dave

Well, they move about 3 inches before they grab. From the youtube videos I've seen, that appeared normal. It's not enough to unbalance the load. It seems like the CW spin before the actual CCW spin cycle is what unbalances the load. Does anybody know if that CW spin is supposed to happen or if the paddles (aka lifters in the parts manual) are just supposed to tumble the load without a spin?

I will pull it off again when I get home and clean out the bearing grease with WD40 and re-apply the light gun oil I used on it before to see if that makes a difference. I'm getting pretty good at pulling out that clutch. 10 minutes tops including the front panel.

Edit: Thanks Dick for posting. I just saw it after I submitted this.
dh1200s  
#177 Posted : Tuesday, March 4, 2014 4:38:53 PM(UTC)
dh1200s

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OK

If you could check this for me does your wash basket rotate slowly rotate CW when you are in wash cycle.....CW Clutch Pulley rotation?

Pics to show exploded view of Clutch Pulley assembly.

New Clutch Pulley with Upper One-Way bearing ring resting on top of Clutch Pulley.

If you don't have that Upper One-Way bearing ring you have a 2nd gen Outer Tub design...........Dick
dh1200s attached the following image(s):
FAV6800AWW Clutch Maint. 2.jpg
New Clurch  25001169.JPG
joelgriffiths  
#178 Posted : Tuesday, March 4, 2014 5:15:55 PM(UTC)
joelgriffiths

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I'm at work right now so I can't check, but I am willing to bet it does. I know it spins slowish in that direction several times during the spin cycle when it's trying to even out the load. I can apply slight pressure to the side of the basket to keep it from moving.

Now that I know what a "Upper One-Way bearing ring" is, I can say for sure I don't have one on the series '13' washer.

Judging from your last message, I'm pretty sure it's going to take a tub rebuild with a new bearing. The clutch is working fine because it spins without a hitch once I get the load reasonably balanced. Everything works great if I hold the tub and prevent it from moving CW right before the spin cycle starts. Also, the things makes one hell of a racket when it's washing so I assume it's spinning when it's not supposed to be.

I don't have to bother holding it when it's spinning CCW as the paddles lock when it's going that direction.

Everything points to that bearing.

It's not my washer and I'm reluctant to actually make that repair though. How risky is it and how difficult is it compared to the clutch (which is pretty simple once you get used to it)?
thorning  
#179 Posted : Thursday, March 6, 2014 6:06:00 AM(UTC)
thorning

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I just gave away a very nice Neptune TL with the problem as mentioned . I took the clutch apart several times and thought I had it cured from the non spin situation when the DC code was present. The only way I could get the water to spin out was to run the washer on the very lowest spin speed. Clothes were still quite damp. If I put the controls to run at the high speed spin it would not work. Bought a new Speed Queen which is not very effecient but supposed to be much more reliable over the long run. Doing the math I figure we saved about $350 over the last 8 years in water and power use and sewer charges. That is about what I figure it would cost for repair parts for the Neptune
Takeonedigital  
#180 Posted : Wednesday, June 18, 2014 1:55:02 PM(UTC)
Takeonedigital

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I just wanted to thank you for the clutch rebuild instructions and thorough diagnosis steps. I had a uL error last night and soaking clothes. Started fix at 10pm and had a running load by midnight with just tools and wd40! You rock and I thank you.
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