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No, it's not a roller bearing. The inner face of the mounting stem tightens down on the sleeve and locks it to the transmission so that the sleeve rotates with the transmission within the bearing. The new bearing is oil impregnated and will release oil when it warms up due to friction between sleeve and bearing surface.
Eric
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56  No, it's not a roller bearing. The inner face of the mounting stem tightens down on the sleeve and locks it to the transmission so that the sleeve rotates with the transmission within the bearing. The new bearing is oil impregnated and will release oil when it warms up due to friction between sleeve and bearing surface.
Eric Excellent explanation! Thanks for sharing the knowledge. This explains a lot of things.....after disassembly, sleeve was no longer "locked" to trans shaft, allowing it to spin freely around shaft because those two surfaces were not damaged/corroded, but if you lock it back on to shaft (all assembled) nothin's movin' because sleeve is seized/rusted to inner bearing surface. I have seen on you-tube videos that the sleeve often remains stuck on the shaft after disassembly, I now surmise that must be more common in cases where repair is being done due to leak as opposed to seized bearing. As you can see, I need to understand how things work or I don't feel comfortable moving forward. I did re-install pulley after last post to manually check the brake and radial bearing operation......seems to work properly, spinning the transmission. Diagnosis is complete (I think haha)! Do I install the "lug" washer about 1/4 turn or so back from mating pulley lug when pulley has climbed up all the way and "bottomed out" at point it starts to turn trans?...or at point I seem to feel initial tension (spring?) while pulley is climbing (which is about 1/2 to 1 or so rotation from bottom out)? I'm guessing the initial tension is beginning of brake release? Thanks again Eric! Kudos to you for the quality and patience of your support! p.s. I'm dying to open that trans case (I know there is oil in it) to see how the gearing causes the agitator "back/forth" motion during "reverse" spin.....I know it's only the shafts that are engaged, not the entire trans case, but I'm still not able to picture it in my mind. I'm guessing the large ring gear has teeth that are angled one direction on half and the opposite on the other half or something? Maybe I can study the exploded parts views better and/or find something on you-tube, etc. I know......I can put a clear cover on it and watch it during operation, make a video and post it....I know, too much time on my hands!
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Install pulley and rotate clockwise til it climbs up and you feel resistance. Hold pulley at that point and place drive lug so that it is 3/8" from pulley lug. Here's a photo of the guts of the transmission. The large bevel gear drives a yoke assembly that moves the output shaft back and forth. The gear on the left is the input pinion gear. When drive pulley is driven CCW, it rotates input pinion gear while brake keeps transmission from moving. With drive pulley going CW, it climbs shaft to push up on brake rotor while simultaneously pulling down on transmission input shaft. That metal ring in photo above input pinion gear is locked to input shaft with set screw. The ring pulls down on the input pinion gear which has a two piece clutch between it and the transmission housing. This locks the input pinion to the housing and is what drives the transmission for spin with brake released. Eric 
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Hi, Eirc,
After I removed the lip seal of the transmisson and can I pull up the shaft center (deep tub) of this transmission? Because my shaft center which its stop lug gear was broken by hammar.
lip seal part#: 207843
shaft cen (deep tub) part#: 22002342 (6-2300050 )
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Not sure what you are asking. Is the stop collar broken or the pinion gear is broken? You can pull the agitator shaft out the bottom of the transmission to replace either.
Eric
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Thanks, Eric,
It is the stop collar broken. I want to replace it.
Is there any way that I can pull the stop collar out the top of the transmission to replace?
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Take the set screw out of the collar and then pull the shaft down far enough to clear the stop collar, pull stop collar out, place new one in and push shaft up through the collar.
Eric
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Thanks, Eric,
I mean I would pull out the left stop collar shaft center of the your posted transmission picture.
What is the procedure I could follow it?
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The pulley side of the transmission. My stop lug is OK but the shaft center (bottom of the transmission) where its gear is broken and is not matched with the stop lug.
So, I would buy this part#6-2300050 to replace it. But, I think I also need to pull out the lip seal from the trasmission. I am not sure is it right ?
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I don't know where your getting your part numbers from and your wording is very cryptic and difficult to understand. If you need to replace the center shaft, then yes, you need to replace the lip seal. Here is the parts manual for the washer. http://shared.whirlpoolc...ist%20-%20LAT9593AAW.pdfEric
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