I have a Whirlpool Quiet Partner II model #DU1055XTVS1. For the last couple of months the dishwasher began to act up. The dishwasher would not complete cycles. In fact, it wouldn't run for more than a minute or so. I would then hit cancel to drain the water, and then restart the machine. The machine would run a little bit longer, and then shut off again. I would drain the dishwasher once again, and then restart the machine -- usually this 3rd attempt would end up completing the full normal cycle. The dishwasher worked in this manner for about a month or so and then one day the dishwasher became unresponsive -- the lights on the control panel would not come on. First, I unplugged the dishwasher for about 5 minutes and tried plugging it back in and still no power. I then tried leaving it unplugged for 30 minutes, and still no power. After unplugging it for over an hour, still no power.
The next day I plugged in the dishwasher and, all of the sudden, there was power to the control panel. I hit the cancel/drain button to remove the water that had been sitting in there from the day before -- the water drained and the dishwasher shut off since it had completed the command. I then tried to start the dishwasher, and it was dead just as before. I repeated the same method of unplugging and waiting and it would not come back on.
I decided to take a look at the control board to see if there were any issues there such as blown capacitors, burn marks, or smell of fried electrical components/circuits. I immediately noticed that 2 of the 1000uf 6.3v capacitors were bulged and their bunts were coming out. I removed the 2 1000uf 6.3v capacitors and replaced them with 2 1000uf 35v capacitors that I bought a Radio Shack. I then reinstalled the control board, and the control panel once again had power. I ran the dishwasher using the default settings -- normal cycle with heated dry -- and it ran for about a 30 seconds to a minute before shutting itself off. Once again the control panel was dead. I left the machine unplugged for an entire day and nothing. I did some more checking on the control board and I thought that maybe the single transistor with heat sink might have gone bad, so I replaced that. Unfortunately, I could not find that same exact transistor so I just put a different one on there (I know bad idea). After reconnecting the board with the wrong transistor on there, the control panel once again came back on. Even though I could smell the burning coming from the transistor that had the wrong voltage the entire time the dishwasher was running, it finished its complete cycle on the the first attempt -- it was on normal cycle with heated dry.
I then tried restarting the dishwasher and it filled with water and shut off about 30 seconds later. At this point, I decided to order a new control board.
When the new control board arrived, I immediately installed it and the control panel was working again. I decided to run the dishwasher using the normal setting with hi-temp wash, sani-rinse, and heated dry. The dishwasher ran perfectly for nearly 30 minutes (something it hadn't done for a while epecially with those settings) -- my wife then decided to hit the cancel/drain button since she wanted to go to Target and she's a freak about leaving stuff on due to possible fires occuring. When we returned about an hour and a half later I tried turning the dishwasher on and it once again was dead -- I was very frustrated with this. On a whim, I decided to reconnect the old control board and once again had power. I hit start and the dishwasher ran for about 20 seconds and shut off -- dead again.
The next day I started doing some testing with my multi-meter (I'm really new to using them). After reading through many threads, I follow some instructions in them. I checked voltage at the bottom right of the machine and got 120 volts. I read this on another thread here:
Quote:Also verify the correct voltage at the control board, with the door latch switches open and closed. P2 (blk/wht ) to P6 (wht/blu) should have 120 VAC across the pins, whether the door is open or closed. P4(wht/prp) to P8(tan) should have 120 VAC only if the door is closed and the latch switches are activated(closed). If the voltages are correct and present at the proper times, then reset the control board, and replace the control panel.
I did these tests and got 120 volts when I was supposed to be getting it. I checked the thermal fuse for continuity with my multimeter and it beeps. I did read elsewhere that the fuse should have 120v going through it -- not sure if that's correct or how to actually check the voltage of the thermal fuse. I connected the red lead to one side of fuse and the black lead to the other side of the fuse, with power cord connected, and the voltage said ~ 2 volts -- I don't remember if I simulated the door switches being closed when doing the voltage test (not sure if it would give a different reading if they were closed). I'll admit that I haven't tested the pins coming from the control panel's ribbon because I don't have a tech sheet and I don't really understand how to do it. I will do this if someone can give me clearer instructions -- or dumb it down for me so that I can do it.
Since I had just paid almost $90.00 for this new control board, I thought I would give it one more shot. I reinstalled the replacement control board that I thought was dead, and was able to get it to run for about 20 minutes before it shut itself off mid-cycle. At this point, I'm frustrated with this dishwasher but I don't want to go out and buy a new one -- this one is ~ 3 years old.
I am thinking of ordering a new control panel, but I would like some more assurance that it's that part that is bad. Any help would greatly be appreciated. I tried reading through all the different Whirlpool threads I could find, and thought I should post the symptoms of mine as well as the measures I have attempted.
Thank you.
