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happy holidays everyone!
sorry to even have to ask but this one has me stumped. i've checked the high limit and operating thermostats and they both have continuity. i've checked the heating element and it has about 12 ohms and is not grounded out. motor runs but no heat. timer counts down too. and yes, 240v at the outlet. thermal fuse is good too.
stumped! any help greatly appreciated!
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Could be timer or motor switch. There isn't any thermal fuse in heater circuit on this model. Check continuity on timer and motor. Operate motor centrifugal switch manually.
Eric
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56  Could be timer or motor switch. There isn't any thermal fuse in heater circuit on this model. Check continuity on timer and motor. Operate motor centrifugal switch manually.
Eric thanks for the reply! i didn't think the thermal fuse had anything to do with the heater circuit but i just wanted to throw it out there. forgive my ignorance, how do i perform the other checks?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Unplug dryer. Place timer in timed dry. Disconnect orange wire from timer terminal A and black wire from terminal R. You should have continuity between the timer B terminal and A terminal. Check continuity between orange wire and yellow wire at motor connector. You should read the 12 ohms through the heater element. If good, make sure the disconnected wires aren't touching anything. Plug dryer back in and start it. Check for 120vac between orange wire and timer terminal X. If you don't have it, then either the motor switch is bad or the black wire/terminals between motor connector and L2 connection is faulty.
Eric
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 Unplug dryer. Place timer in timed dry. Disconnect orange wire from timer terminal A and black wire from terminal R. You should have continuity between the timer B terminal and A terminal. Check continuity between orange wire and yellow wire at motor connector. You should read the 12 ohms through the heater element. If good, make sure the disconnected wires aren't touching anything. Plug dryer back in and start it. Check for 120vac between orange wire and timer terminal X. If you don't have it, then either the motor switch is bad or the black wire/terminals between motor connector and L2 connection is faulty.
Eric ok, there is continuity between timer b and timer a terminal. there is 12 ohm resistance between orange wire and yellow wire at the motor. now with the other test i got nothing between the orange wire and timer terminal x. that's with the dryer running on timed dry at about the 40min mark. assuming the motor switch is bad? i'm not really sure where that is located. should this thing just get scrapped? thank you for all of your help!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
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Check for 240vac at the dryer receptacle. If good, with dryer unplugged, check continuity between cord plug L-2 terminal and the black wire at motor wire harness connector. Motor switch is part of the motor where the cable harness plugs in. If these two tests are good, then it appears that the motor switch is bad and you would have to replace the motor. Frigidaire 131560100 Motor - AppliancePartsPros.comEric
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/26/2013(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 Check for 240vac at the dryer receptacle. If good, with dryer unplugged, check continuity between cord plug L-2 terminal and the black wire at motor wire harness connector. Motor switch is part of the motor where the cable harness plugs in. If these two tests are good, then it appears that the motor switch is bad and you would have to replace the motor. Frigidaire 131560100 Motor - AppliancePartsPros.com Eric so just to wrap up this thread, it appears that the motor switch is bad. it's unfortunate that you have to buy a whole new motor instead of just the switch. i think at this point i'm just going to invest in a new dryer. eric, i thank you very much for all of your help! i owe you a 6-pack! thanks!
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