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Eric,
I can't seem to get the brake to stay released. I see where turning it CCW releases the pads against the lining, but it keeps going back to tight. I tried taking out the gearcase and turning the brake loose but it doesn't stay unlocked. It goes right back tight. Do I have to keep it loose by means of the agitator or put the gearcase back close while turning the plastic piece CCW?
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The brakes only stay released while your rotating the brake cam driver. During normal operation in spin mode, the clutch hub is spinning continuously which means the clutch band is also spinning continuously which drives the brake cam driver and clothes basket. The agitator shaft has no function with regard to brake release or driving the spin tube.
Eric
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am I able to put this back together with brakes locked?
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Yes, just be sure (as I said before) to rotate the basket drive CCW by hand and push at the same time to make sure it's all the way in, otherwise the gearcase won't go up against the gearcase mounting studs.
Eric
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what is basket drive? Is that the long stem that agitator screws done on? I broke that tiny piece of that plastic piece in photo 1. Do you think this will hold if I glue and epoxy it back on? Not sure how much pressure is on it, as it is very thin piece to begin with.
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I would advise that you replace that broken brake cam driver. It only comes with the clutch or clutch band kit unless you try to find it elsewhere. Part number is 64194. Whirlpool 285790 Clutch Band and Lining Kit - AppliancePartsPros.com The basket drive is the brake and drive tube assembly. It drives the inner tub (basket). The brakes, brake cam and brake cam driver (your broken plastic piece) are part of this assembly. Eric
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Hello again, Eric,
Well I ordered the parts for this. It was a stupid thing I did that broke that ear off, my fault, which had nothing to do with original problem I was having. Live and learn I guess.
I hope I corrected this off balance vibration situation but won't know until I put in new parts.
Can you think of any other areas I might want to check while I have it apart that would cause excessive off balance type vibration and walking all over during spin cycle? I do not see any bad parts that are obvious and head area by spanner nut all looks fine that you showed in your photo. I saw no areas of wear anywhere. I replaced pads under skid plate and didn't get a chance to try it again. Just wondering, but for now, I will have to wait until these parts arrive and I will post here the results. Tnanks for your help and will get back and let you know what happens.
greg
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The only other thing would be loss of fluid in the balance ring. This is the top part of the inner tub which has chambers filled with fluid. You should be able to hear it sloshing around when moving the tub around. Only way to check would be to remove the tub and inspect for holes or cracks in this area. Still hard to diagnose and only repair option is to replace the tub.
Eric
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I can hear the fluid swishing around in the tub. I have to assume it has no holes or leaks in it, as I have had it upside down and nothing has come out. Can a black smudgy, area that contacts the pads that I replaced have caused this? I noticed when I tore the skid plate off, that on each area where these pads rub or skid, the plate was smudged very badly. When I cleaned this off, it was hard to come off, but I finally got it off. What I noticed that this area was sticky and could have caused the tub from balancing if it was sticking on this area, or more clearly, not skidding easily across it. It is not very clean and slippery. That was my thought that it could be the reason for this very bad unbalance. I did look at upper pads and they were like new, no wear, no smudging, very slick. I left them alone but cleaned them off. After looking at how this operates and realizing that everything relies on this skid plate, I can now see why this is so important in off balance situations and those pads have to be slick and clean. What is your thinking on this? I rubbed my fingers on these smudgy spots and it was only where the pads were rubbing, and they were definitely sticky, and not slick. We will see shortly if this fixes that off balance situation and interesting to see if ever so slightly an imperfection in this area can cause this. Again, I will let you know and others who are following this thread for older style washing machines.
greg
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Eric,
Just wanted to let you know I have it all back together, got the new part I broke in one day, put it on, and it no longer shakes or moves as if off balance. It is running as smooth as can be. As I have said in previous posts and also to alert others having this same extreme off balance spin issue, I did replace the bottom pads and put back together and it still shook badly. I then tore it apart looking for excessive wear parts, and with Eric's help, got it back together. In the process I broke a plastic piece that had nothing to do with this off balance. What I found was that when I did tear it apart, that the upper metal skid plate that bears against these pads was very marked up, and black, where it was constantly riding on these pads. I did not notice how smudgy they were when I replaced pads originally, and that is why it was still off balance and shaking. I cleaned these areas off. Got the surface really smooth and clean, also cleaned top pads off. Now it is spinning very smoothly. My only thought on this is that it is hard to believe that just the tiniest speck on these pads, or opposing surfaces, can cause so much off balance spinning. Although mine was all smudgy, it was that, and had I not torn it apart I would have never seen this. thanks to Eric for all his help and Appliance parts for very fast shipping. I was actually ready to get a new washer, as I figured it was shaking so bad it literally was walking across the floor and totally not repairable. Go figure.
signing out
greg
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