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2 Burners out. Need help testing switches.
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Model: KESA907PSS Brand: Kitchen Aid Age: 5 - 10 years
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/m3  
#1 Posted : Friday, November 22, 2013 12:24:21 PM(UTC)
/m3

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I have my front 2 burners out on my kitchenaid KESA907PSS. Service came by to diagnose the problem and said it was the infinite switches without taking a part the unit. Quote was $500 for the repair. I passed when I saw the cost of the switches online. btw. both burners act differently. One will have a slow flashing led and not turn on. the other will either have a quick pulsing led and click or not illuminate at all.

I removed the control panel and pulled out the switch on one of the burners that was bad and one that was good to get a comparison with the meter. My switch looks different than the ones I see posted with the components D, S, L1a, L1,& N. With the switch in the off position i am only getting a reading with my leads on L1 & N together on both switches. The reading flashes for a second and goes back to 1. I get different readings each time on both.

Trying to get a little help on how to properly test this switch. I have tested in the off and on position and there is not much difference.

This is what my switch looks like:
UserPostedImage

Appreciate any help.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Saturday, November 23, 2013 1:32:19 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts.
Your model number is missing the last couple digits so ypu will have to choose the correct one from Matching Model Numbers.
Parts for KESA907PSS - AppliancePartsPros.com

Looking at the switch I think you have a 00 or a 01 unit.
Attached is the wiring diagram for this unit.
Note that a 02 unit is different.

Here is a link to a service manual.
You will have to join the site to be able to download the manual.
http://appliancejunk.com...&id=146;t=1385201277

It should be helpful checking the switches and if you decide to replace them.

Looks like the switches come as a kit (item 11 in section 02 of the parts).
A kit is usually an indication that there has been problems with the older set up.
I think the 02 units use the new style switches.
File Attachment(s):
KESA907 00&01.pdf (390kb) downloaded 14 time(s).
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/m3  
#3 Posted : Saturday, November 23, 2013 3:32:55 AM(UTC)
/m3

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Any advice on how to test? Was using the multimeter as stated above but not really sure if I am doing it right or what I am looking for.
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denman  
#4 Posted : Saturday, November 23, 2013 4:57:04 AM(UTC)
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[COLOR="Blue"]Any advice on how to test?[/COLOR]
See 5-1 page in the service manual.
This just checks the switch contacts inside the infinite switch.

[COLOR="Blue"]
Was using the multimeter as stated above but not really sure if I am doing it right or what I am looking for[/COLOR]
Sorry but cannot say if you are using your meter correctly.

A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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/m3  
#5 Posted : Saturday, November 23, 2013 5:20:48 AM(UTC)
/m3

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I appreciate your feedback. The complete model number is KESA907PSS01. I clicked the link you provided and typed in the model number but all i see are the parts diagram as well as an owners manual. I do not see a service manual or anything indicating 5-1

I did read the sticky in fact before i posted but in my original post the trouble I was having with was if I am testing the right connectors since my switch is labeled differently than the others I have seen posted here and online.

The switches I am trying to test have already been removed as well.

I did swap out a good working switch to both burners that were not working and have determined that the switches must be at fault and not the element.

Thanks.
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denman  
#6 Posted : Saturday, November 23, 2013 7:29:38 AM(UTC)
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Below is my reference to the manual.

Here is a link to a service manual.
You will have to join the site to be able to download the manual.
http://appliancejunk.com/forums/inde...t=13 85201277

The link should take you to the site.
Then join the site.
Then open the link again in a new tab or window and that should get you the manual (re: you must be logged in).

The manual looks pretty good so should be useful to you.
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/m3  
#7 Posted : Saturday, November 23, 2013 12:05:14 PM(UTC)
/m3

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thanks. above link didnt work the first time cause i was not logged in and brought me to a different target page.

Thanks again.
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/m3  
#8 Posted : Wednesday, November 27, 2013 11:58:30 AM(UTC)
/m3

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Ok So i just put in a new wiring harness and switches that i ordered but on the new switches there is not a connector for the stove top light that shows when the burner is on. All burners are working now.

I do not see any place on the new switch to plug in the wire.
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denman  
#9 Posted : Wednesday, November 27, 2013 12:20:32 PM(UTC)
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Sorry but I do not know the answer to this perhaps call the parts people.

Could be that they did away with this.
It may have been causing more problems than it was worth.
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/m3  
#10 Posted : Wednesday, November 27, 2013 1:21:02 PM(UTC)
/m3

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figured it out. Didnt realize one of the wires was an actual light. thought it was just a fuse.

Still dont have the light coming up showing the surface is hot but that could be all on me as well..
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