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Hi,
My Dryer was running the other day when it suddenly stopped. After doing a bunch of research I assumed it was the thermal fuse and bought one today and installed it. That did not fix the issue. I purchased a multimeter and began testing the other components of they dryer. The door switch is fine, as is the start switch, power is coming into the unit, and the thermostat is fine. I also tested power coming into the timer and the connection from the start switch and the timer and both tested fine.
I can't believe that the issue would be the motor as the dryer does not start at all and there wasn't any indication that there was an issue with the motor. Let me know what you guys think.
Thanks
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Here are your parts Parts for Roper RED4440VQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for your tech sheet. I am not sure how/what you checked for power. It is the L1 to Neutral voltage that is important. If you did not check It I would do that before doing anything else. Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker. Check the voltage at the plug L1 to L2 should be 240 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. If OK Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out If OK Check the power at the terminal strip. Do this with the heater off and on. [COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR] If the L1 power is OK Set you meter to the most sensitive ohms scale. Short the meter leads together before starting so you can see if there is a 0 offset in the meter. Unplug the unit, set the timer to timed dry, high heat. Now attach one meter lead to the L1 prong on the power cord and leave it there. Now just work your way back through the motor start circuit. So Timer BK, Timer B and both sides of the thermal fuse should be 0 ohms. W or W-R at the Push To Start Switch should be 1 to 2 ohms (the motor windings is series). BK at Push To Start Switch again 1 to 2 ohms when switch is activated. Same for both sides of the Door Switch and the Neutral plug on the power cord, with Door Switched and the Push To Start Switch activated. |
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for your response denman. I think we are on to something or I may be doing something wrong. I just tested the voltage and everything checked out. After attaching one lead to the L1 prong and the other to the Timer BK I got 0 ohms. However, when I move on to Timer B there was no movemement on the meter. If Timer B does not work should the rest of the steps work? Does this mean the issue is with the Timer?
Thanks so much for your help
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
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[COLOR="Blue"]If Timer B does not work should the rest of the steps work?[/COLOR]
No.
To check the rest of the motor circuit you would have to move the fixed (L1) lead to Timer B and then continue.
[COLOR="Blue"] Does this mean the issue is with the Timer?[/COLOR]
Yes. BK to B contacts are not closing.
As long as the timer is not at OFF. |
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