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bruce079  
#1 Posted : Saturday, November 2, 2013 9:57:07 AM(UTC)
bruce079

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4 y/o Maytag side by side...the icemaker seems to have stopped between cycles..as the ejection fingers are straight up and the on/off wire lever is halfway down. The problem started with what appeared to be a water over fill one night. After clean up, the icemaker worked again for a few days then stopped in the mid cycle position. The water and ice dispensers in the door work fine. Currently the icemaker tray is dry as it never rotated to the fill stage. So, thinking ...water inlet valve, or control head or the entire icemaker? Can anyone help. Thanks Bruce
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bruce079  
#2 Posted : Saturday, November 16, 2013 8:14:19 AM(UTC)
bruce079

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Originally Posted by: bruce079 Go to Quoted Post
4 y/o Maytag side by side...the icemaker seems to have stopped between cycles..as the ejection fingers are straight up and the on/off wire lever is halfway down. The problem started with what appeared to be a water over fill one night. After clean up, the icemaker worked again for a few days then stopped in the mid cycle position. The water and ice dispensers in the door work fine. Currently the icemaker tray is dry as it never rotated to the fill stage. So, thinking ...water inlet valve, or control head or the entire icemaker? Can anyone help. Thanks Bruce


This is cutting into my cocktail hour....I have to keep going to the store to get ice.....if ya can just tell me where to start first......all the best ....
Appliance Ninja  
#3 Posted : Saturday, November 16, 2013 8:37:12 AM(UTC)
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Do you have a meter to test voltage with? If so, can you remove the cover from the ice maker and test between the holes marked L & N, making sure to tape the door switch for the freezer door in, please? You should read 120 VAC there, do you? If you read 120 VAC there, the module will need to be replaced and is available below.

http://www.appliancepartspros.c...w10190935-ap4359694.html


Or, if you would rather replace the entire ice maker, it is available below.

http://www.appliancepartspros.c...w10300022-ap4982689.html
bruce079  
#4 Posted : Monday, November 18, 2013 7:05:13 AM(UTC)
bruce079

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Posts: 14

Originally Posted by: Appliance Ninja Go to Quoted Post
Do you have a meter to test voltage with? If so, can you remove the cover from the ice maker and test between the holes marked L & N, making sure to tape the door switch for the freezer door in, please? You should read 120 VAC there, do you? If you read 120 VAC there, the module will need to be replaced and is available below.

Whirlpool W10190935 Ice Maker Control Module - AppliancePartsPros.com


Or, if you would rather replace the entire ice maker, it is available below.

Whirlpool W10300022 Icemaker - AppliancePartsPros.com


Thank you ninja...that's at least a starting point....I just wanted to make sure it was not the water inlet valve. Appreciate you time ...tnx
Appliance Ninja  
#5 Posted : Monday, November 18, 2013 7:15:25 AM(UTC)
Appliance Ninja

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You are very welcome. Those ejector fingers should never stall there, so it is either broken or not getting power.
bruce079  
#6 Posted : Friday, December 20, 2013 7:54:00 AM(UTC)
bruce079

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Well, still going to the store for ice.....aaargggg!! I have replaced the entire icemaker. Had to use the base plate, pigtail wiring harness and wire arm from the old one. IT STILL DOESN T WORK. I have removed it and checked connections 3 times. I don t appear to have 120 v between the L & N test points. Tried checking the pigtail socket and get nothing. When I use an electronic current tester (the yellow thing that beeps, when current is present....I get power through the black wire...but only up to the point where it has a white ceramic looking piece that clips into the bottom of the ice tray....(possible heater maybe?). Does the fill valve supply the 120v to the icemaker wiring harness? Could the pigtail harness be bad? Have to get a new multimeter (today), to try resistance checks. Hope someone can help.....already into this for 100 plus and nothing.
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