Mod. RBD305PRB00
Ser. XW1807134

Okay, so after cleaning pie filling off of the bottom of my top oven, I decided to run an "autoclean" cycle and get rid of the rest of the gunk from the past 4 years. About 2/3rds of the way through the cycle I thought it would be interesting to try and look up why they don't include an autoclean cycle on the bottom oven. Instead, I found a lot of people posting how their oven had locked up or quit working when they ran the self-clean feature. Instead of canceling the cycle, although my whole house already smelled like burning electrical parts at that point, I thought I would take my chances.

Well here I am, 2 days later, with a top oven that doesn't work. THANK GOODNESS they only have autoclean for the top oven!

When I turn my oven on, it acts normal. The preheat runs the same and it beeps and tells me it is all ready to go at 350*, but in reality neither filament is hot at all. What is wrong? How can I fix this? Thanks for your help in advance.

Thank you for the reply denman. I am just now almost a year later getting around to fixing this. Anyway, I have ordered the thermal overload and am trying to research replacing it. Do I have to pull my wall oven out of the cabinet to access the part? I'm assuming that is what is required for the sensor as well if needed. Any help anyone can give is appreciated. Thanks again.

Okay, I replaced the thermostat and it is still not working. I checked the heating filaments and they work fine. I haven't replaced the sensor, but I'm assuming the oven would heat up even if the sensor was not working.

The fan kicks on and makes all of the noises like it is heating, the oven tells me it has heated up to 350 degrees, but there is no heat.

Any other suggestions? I was so excited to be able to fix this myself, but really have no idea what else may be wrong. :confused:

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.

Below is info on a meter.

You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.