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Thanks for your help. Is there a way to test the igniter itself?
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Yes, you can measure continuity through it. However, it may test good that way but not draw enough current through the valve to open it, so it is more accurate to measure the voltage and current draw. If it is getting voltage to it, even if it glows, it is likely bad.
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I pulled out the ignitor this morning. Comparing it to the picture in the one you sent me, all looks very identical except that the part of it that appears vented with the slots is a bit wider on the one I pulled out. Matter or not?
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That will not matter but you can use the old one by slightly bending it to remove it from the ceramic part. If you do that, be very careful not to touch or break the ceramic part, they are a bit fragile.
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That is the same one I linked you to, but if you order through Amazon, you will not likely have the same warranty as if you ordered through APP. Also, Amazon offers no tech support.... ;-)
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I see some that range from $25 to $70..... but they all appear to be the same or fairly identical.
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Got the replacement ignitor. The ceramic portion was a bit longer but fit and is now running! Thanks for your input.
My next appliance issue..... a Bosch Dishwasher. Something you can maybe help with as well?
It's s BOSCH Model: SXH46A05UC / 46
I was pulling the dishwasher out to clean in the back and underneath and to eventually connect a pronged plug to the hard wire because at the wall, its just two wires out of the electrical box which I do not like. Anyway, somewhere during the move of the stove, there was a short that seemed to have zapped the unit. I saw a spark on the underside where the wires come in.
It powers up, but often you'll hear it draining, gurgling continuously without stopping. Also, when you select a particular "cycle" it doesn't really do what it's supposed to or will partially run and somewhat clean. But it's not really doing what it should. I suspect the control board that controls the washer got partially fried.
Suggestions?
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