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The first thing I would check in such situation is the power source.
Check if both circuit breakers for the oven are on.
The control board needs only 120V but it should be 240V for the heating elements to function properly.
Check if there is 120V coming to the thermal fuse.
Gene.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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when you get your meter . put the oven on bake and check your power on thebake element if you do not have 240 volts then your control board is bad. if you have 240 volts then you element is bad.
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Rank: Member
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Okay here's what I found. First off the thermal fuse (which I already replaced appears to be blown again). I do have 120V going to the fuse but of course since the fuse is blown I don't have 240V going to the elements. I did check the temp sensor and it read 1089 ohms (which is good). I also checked the elements, 26 ohms (bake) and 18 ohms (broil). According to the manual the broil should be in the 45-55 ohm reading. The bake is good. My question is why would the broil element be bad since we never use it; however, the oven started acting funny after we preformed a self-clean. Ever since the self clean the oven has not worked. Any more suggestions??? I would really prefer not to call a service tech since I'm already into it this far.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: SEBISH  My question is why would the broil element be bad since we never use it; Even if you did not use the Broil mode, the broil heating element works every time when you use the Self clean. In such situation I would recommend to replace the broil heating element due to low resistance. Regarding the thermal fuse I would recommend to replace it one more time and not to use the Self clean any more until you will perform all checks and repairs according to the Whirlpool service pointer. - The part number for the thermal fuse (aka thermistor) AP3008987 - The part number for the Broil heating element AP3891570 Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Okay I finally ordered the above parts and received them today. The first thing I did was ohm out the new broil element and it reads the same as my existing element ~18 ohms. The Technical Services sheet says it should read 45-55 ohms. What is the problem here? I would like to replace the fuse but I'm pretty sure it will blow like the last one did, so I am at a lose at what to check next. Any suggestions?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The part you received is the OEM part made by the Whirlpool.
The 45-55 Ohms from the manual could a misprint.
The fuse on the back of the oven is a Thermal fuse and it could be blown only if the oven got overheated.
I would recommend to replace the thermal fuse and not use the self clean.
Gene.
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What happens if it blows the fuse again? Where can I look before replacing the fuse?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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This is not a Line fuse.
This is a Thermal fuse.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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I understand its a thermal fuse; however, I have already replaced it once and it didn't work and the fuse was blown.........SO I went ahead and replaced it again and this time I checked the fuse prior to putting it in. The oven works. I guess the original replacement fuse was defective; my fault for not checking it with a meter first.
Anyway, can I return the broil element that is still in the box? What is your return policy?
Thanks for all the help.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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I do not work for the APP. I'm just the volunteer here on the forum. You have to call the customer service.
Gene.
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