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I have replaced the transmission on the advice of a Sears repairman, still doesn't spin only hum from motor. The basket seamed real tight, I bought and replaced the basket drive, still only hums. I found this forum and make adjustments to the brake lining, performed the manual test and it seamed to turn a lot easier than before but when I put it all back together it still only hums. It doesn't seam like it is trying to turn at all. I have even reached down inside the tub to try and help get it going but it is tight, almost like frozen. I must have something wrong but cannot figure out what else to look at. Any ideas? DaveD69
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Check the model number, doesn't come up. Does it fill and agitate ok?
Eric
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 Check the model number, doesn't come up. Does it fill and agitate ok?
Eric 110.29882890 model I've been working on this on and off for over two weeks, first time over 6 weeks ago it had this problem and I took off the inner tub to check the block which was ok and put it all back together and it worked for about two weeks. I have not tried the fill and agitate cycles as I don't want to have to deal with all the water. Am I making a mistake not trying that? Thanks for your reply
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So far I have replaced the pump,coupler,tub block,complete gear case with new clutch and basket drive with new brakes. I'm wondering if the capacitor could be bad, I pulled it and don't believe it had a charge in it, tested it with A cap meter and got a reading of .175? Could that be it.
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Yes, it certainly could be. Set the motor on the floor, still plugged in and try it. If it just hums, spin the shaft by hand and it should start. If it does, problem could be motor switch or capacitor but based on your capacitor test, it's bad. Cap should be 324-389 microfarads http://www.appliancepartspros.c...r-8572720-ap3861916.htmlEric
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 Yes, it certainly could be. Set the motor on the floor, still plugged in and try it. If it just hums, spin the shaft by hand and it should start. If it does, problem could be motor switch or capacitor but based on your capacitor test, it's bad.
Eric I will try that thanks, that should narrow it down, is the start switch that red plastic piece that the wire harness hooks over.?
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Yes, you can open it up to examine and clean the contacts if necessary. Can you provide a photo of your wiring diagram? Can't seem to find it. Should be inside of control panel. Eric
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 Yes, you can open it up to examine and clean the contacts if necessary. Can you provide a photo of your wiring diagram? Can't seem to find it. Should be inside of control panel. Eric Motor started and ran on its own, I let it run for about 2 minutes.
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Still could be capacitor. It takes a lot more torque to start the motor when it's driving the gearcase. The capacitor gives it the extra torque for starting. You should be able to rotate the gearcase input shaft by hand or using a drill. CW for spin, CCW for agitate. Take half the motor coupler off the motor shaft, put a bolt through it and nut and chuck the bolt into the drill.
Eric
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I am able to rotate it by hand but it does take some effort but there is no scraping brake noise as before. Is using a drill a better method to test this? By the way after testing the motor to the side with success and reinstalling it.....HUMMMmMmsssss
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