My dryer is completely dead. I have checked the voltage at the terminal block and got the following voltages: L1 to L2 = 240v, L1 to N = 0v, L2 to N = 240v. I am fairly sure this is not correct voltages. First thing I checked was the outlet and the circuit breaker, both tested out correctly. I have checked all switches and thermostats, they all have continuity. I checked the heating elements and they tested about 19 ohms . I also replaced the motor believing the motor switch was the culprit. The only tests that seemed wrong were the terminal block voltages (mentioned above) and a measurement across the small terminals on the Control Inlet Thermostat. The schematic shows this should measure 9k ohms however it measured 18k ohms. Is this resistance a possible cause for the unit not functioning (directly or indirectly) and the voltage imbalance at the terminal block? The motor runs if I connect it to 110v directly, so I was leaning towards the problem being in the heating circuit somewhere, but don't know where to check from here.:confused: Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Unplug the unit.
Then check the neutral in the line cord using resistance, should be 0 ohms.

Just to be sure that you got the correct voltages at the wall receptacle..
They should be
L1 to Neutral 120 volts.
L2 to Neutral 120 volts.
L1 to L2 240 volts.

Can't tell you if you have a backfeed over an online site at a house i'm not at. Try replacing the breaker first possibly and use some nolax on your connection aluminum wiring in housing gets electrolysis and bad readings and problems sometimes especially if it's an old panel and wiring. Can't guarantee it'll solve your problem but if things look old maybe it's time for a new breaker or panel depending on your house usage and local codes. Once you get the electric supply issue fixed it'll narrow down if it's machine or feed.

[COLOR="Blue"]This led me to think that something may be shorted in the unit, like a motor winding.[/COLOR]
I cannot see that something shorted would cause your problem.
If you had a short in the unit it should trip your circuit breaker.

Still seems to me that you are loosing Neutral somehow.
But I cannot explain why it seems to be there when the unit is not plugged in.
It till sounds like a house wiring problem to me and not a dryer problem.

Below is my reasoning.
L1 to L2 is real as you measure it no matter what the conditions.
Then when you check Neutral to L2 you also see 240
So I would say that the L2 and L1 are real but that the L1 voltage is feeding through a part in the dryer and showing up on the Neutral. Since this part needs L1 to Neutral voltage (120 volts) it does not run (no current path) so the L1 voltage is seen on both sides of the part.

When you measure the voltage at the wall receptacle are you using the actual Neutral connection in the receptacle or the receptacle case?

Is this a 3 wire or 4 wire hook up?
Is the receptacle Neutral properly grounded to the receptacle case if it is 3 wire?
Is the wire used from the box to the receptacle BX (metal shielded)?

Have you tried different things with the dryer.
Is the timer set to off?
Try measuring the voltages with the door open.
This should disconnect most parts that run from L1 to Neutral re: the motor and timer motor.
If the unit has a drum light that works you may have to remove the bulb to get proper readings.

You could do a jiggery pokery to remove the dryer as a possible cause.
If you decide to do this be very, very careful as 240 is lethal.
make yourself a test jig.
A 120 volt receptacle or a trouble light with a couple pig tails (wires) connected to it.
If you use a receptacle then plug a lamp etc. into it.
Flip the breaker off. Insert the wires into the wall receptacle (Neutral to L1)
Just make sure that nothing can short out.
Now flip the breaker on to see if the light actually turns on.
Do the same with Neutral to L2.

You're very welcome