I checked that just now, the ribbon is in good. For the last hour I have been checking everything with an ohm analog meter. So far I can find nothing reading out of range from the prints. Something very unusual, the unit has been on the back porch for a week, I rigged up temp elect and filled it with a hose....and it started.......after the power is turned off for a while the unit will seem to work.....but only for 1 cycle it seems........I put the old board in and it started running.....but messing with it I ended up stopping it and it wouldn't start again. I'm timing it now to see roughly how long the power must be off before it runs again. Sounds like something overheating.....but I can't find anything right now. I need to rig up temp water so it can fill on it's on and run through entire cycles. Next time I can run it, if it starts again I plan to see if it'll go in the diagnostic cycle............have you ever seen one like this before?

You MUST have a good ground!!!! Some of the new eletronics are VERY FUSSY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you dont have a ground wire, This could cause some of your troubles!!!:)

Is the unit stainless or plastic, you will notice that the power in is different for them. Looks like the plastic units kill power to the control board whenever the door is opened. The stainless units keep the board powered up so if it hangs due to an error the only way to reset is to unplug it.

I would disconnect the keypad and check it with a meter.
This is a matrix type of keypad and may do all sorts of weird things if one of the directing diodes on the board goes.
Could also be you have a stuck key and it's LED is not working.

Probably easiest to pull the keypad and do this at a table as there are a lot of keys and each should be checked with the meter using both polarities.

Can you post some detailed trouble shooting procedures for the keypad
Do not know how much you know about electronics so: you will see that the keyboard has a number of diodes (little arrows). They conduct current in only one direction, into the arrow. If you put the negative lead (-) of your meter on the into arrow side and the positive lead (+) on the out of arrow side the diode will conduct (low resistance). If you now swap the leads they will not conduct (high resistance). Note: on some meters the negative lead is not actually the negative side of the battery but you will know lead polarity is correct after checking a couple diodes. Also the meter scale makes a difference, a 2Kohm scale should be OK, try other scales if you do not see a difference.
Example: With - lead on P1-3 and and + lead on P1-11 when SW3 (Soak&Scour) button is pushed you should see a lower resistance (forward biased).
Reverse the leads and pushing SW3 should make no difference (reversed biased).
I would tape the ribbon cable down to the table, it is a royal pain if it keeps moving about. Depending on your meter leads you may have to tape a couple pins or small finishing nails to the leads so you can get at the ribbon cables track connections/tacks. You must check all switches and diodes in both forward biased and reversed bias. Probably best to make yourself a little chart so it does not get confusing. It is tedious but is the only way to properly check a keyboard.
This looks like a not bad site for basic electronics info.
Meters

and also how to remove it?
Will be self evident once you remove the inner door panel.

I think I'll need a pin assignment details on which pins go to which buttons too?
See the second link of my earlier post, it has the pin assignments, first page right hand corner. Often Pin/Track 1 is a different color on the ribbon cable. If not it is usually marked by the connector on the board and you can mark it with a felt pen.

Try running the diagnostics first. It could save you a lot of time.
See second page of the second link of my earlier post.