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Hello, folks,
My GE Profile washer is leaking from the bottom of the tub, at the transmission seal.
(a) I am mechanically inclined and have all the necessary tools - how difficult is this to fix?
(b) What parts will I probably need, and are they still available? How much will they cost? Are there any other parts I should replace while I'm in there?
(c) The bleach dispenser funnel is also broken - is that part still available?
(d) Machine is around 14 years old and in good shape otherwise - very well maintained - if fixed can I expect another 5 years of service?
Thanks in advance for any and all assistance.
Ken
South San Francisco, CA
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Normally when the tub seal leaks the washer becomes very noisy in spin and the transmission will have to be replaced to fix the noise. If you washer isn’t noisy you may be able to get by just replacing the tub seal. Both if these parts are available. The only problem you may run into is the 1-11/16 nut that holds the spin basket to the transmission, without the proper it is hard to remove but not impossible. Note that the nut is left-hand thread. I am amazed that you got 14 years out of a washer so wouldn’t say that you would get 5 more years out of it but you may. I would say that if you can get by just replacing the seal the it would be well worth it especially if you do it yourself but if the transmission has to be replaced I wouldn’t do it. For more on do-it-yourself appliance repair visit Appliance Repair Guide For All Major Home Appliances
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Originally Posted by: applianceman  Normally when the tub seal leaks the washer becomes very noisy in spin and the transmission will have to be replaced to fix the noise. If you washer isn’t noisy you may be able to get by just replacing the tub seal. The washer has gotten a bit noisy during spin cycle; I can deal with the noise, but are you saying that the tranny has to be replaced due to imminent failure? Originally Posted by: applianceman The only problem you may run into is the 1-11/16 nut that holds the spin basket to the transmission, without the proper it is hard to remove but not impossible. Note that the nut is left-hand thread. I have sockets and wrenches that size; is there some sort of specialized tool needed for this nut removal? Thanks again for your assistance and support!
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If you can put up with the noise if don’t think it will fail due to this.
As for the tool, a socket won’t reach the nut and a wrench is typically too long. There is a special tool for this but you can probably find something that will work.
Also if you look in the control panel you should find good instructions for taking the washer apart to replace the tub seal.
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[FONT='Times New Roman']If you can’t find the instructions let me know and I will write them. [/FONT]
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: applianceman
As for the tool, a socket won’t reach the nut and a wrench is typically too long. There is a special tool for this but you can probably find something that will work.
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Applianceman, You were right about the spin basket nut - what a pain. None of my wrenches will fit in the confines of the spin basket, so I had to fabricate a six-point wrench, similar to the one being sold here. Will try it tomorrow - wish me luck! I expect it to be stubborn - can you suggest anything that mght help? Could I use a rust solvent, or apply heat to the nut? Should I expect to have to purchase a replacement nut? Also, how tight should the nut be when I put it back on? Should I just grab both ends of the wrench and torque it in as hard as I can? Thanks in advance for your assistance and support!
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Rank: Member
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Most of the time to take that nut off I put my tool on it and hit it as hard as I can with a 2-pound hammer and it comes right off. If you don’t round the nut off taking it off you probably will not have to replace it. When you put this nut back on it needs to be real tight I always give it a few good hits with that same hammer. Try this link it may be useful. GE Washer Disassembly Guide
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Rank: Member
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Many thanks to you, Mr. Applianceman!
My washing machine is now leak-free and quieter than it has been in years.
After I got that stubborn nut removed, the rest was pie. Replaced the tub seal, and also the drive belt and the tub cover assembly (which included a new improved bleach dispenser). Looks like I might get another 5 years out of it after all.
Total cost: $68.00 for parts and about 2 hours of my time - and that was with me taking it easy.
This is a great forum and I appreciate your assistance and support.
May the appliance gods smile upon you!
Cheers!
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