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I have a MFF2258VEW2 Maytag that is having problems. Does anyone have a source for a manual on this fridge? It seems very different from most of the other Maytag's I have seen online and I am trying to solve a defrost problem. Sears Parts and the other parts places do not have any of the defrost parts listed so that is no help.
I was getting ice in the freezer (which is on the bottom) so I thought the problem was that the duckbill drain was clogged. It was indeed clogged so I cleaned it and put everything back together. The unit has an icemaker that is not connected to water but the kids were playing with it so I unplugged it. But a week later the fridge is warm and the freezer is a solid block of ice. Upon dissection of the freezer (WHAT A PAIN! And no manual to figure that mess out...) it looks like the common wire to the heater goes through the ice maker so I may have just disconnected the defrost.
I am melting the ice now and will hook the ice maker back up but I would like to ensure that nothing is shorted out. Without a manual, however, I do not have a good way to tell which parts are what and what the resistances should be. I did get continuity on the heater, so that is good. Its got a thermistor, but no thermostat? No easy way to check it either, as far as I can tell. Sigh.
Any advice appreciated.
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Here are your parts Parts for Maytag MFF2258VEW2 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the tech sheet. Not sure why you feel the defrost goes through the ice maker. I doubt this but stranger things have happened. Perhaps the wiring layout in the tech sheet will help you trace this. Below is my standard blurb about diagnosing defrost problems. First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils. If they are heavily iced/frosted over then it is a defrost problem. Do not let them de-ice. If yes. Manually force a defrost cycle, see the tech sheet. When the fans and compressor turn off, you are in defrost. There is usually a hole in the cover to let you do this without taking anything apart. Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on. Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers. If the heater is on then the control board needs replacing, re: it is never programming into a defrost cycle. If not on. Unplug the unit. Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 30 ohms or so. If the heater is OK Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK. I could not find it in the parts but it should be clipped to the top of the evaporator coils. If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast. Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo. |
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That's awesome! Thanks!
As for the ice maker, the second lead from the heating element is a white wire that goes directly into the ice maker harness. I would think that since it appears to be a common wire that the ice maker would not need to be connected for the circuit to be closed but that seems to have been associated with the problem.
But I have now defrosted the thing completely so if the problem reoccurs, now I have the tech sheet!
Thanks again!
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Looking at the upper left of the wiring layout (AMP CONNECTOR) looks like the white is simply joined here.
White is usually Neutral so it has to go to both the ice maker and the defrost heater. |
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