Your timer may be the problem, this part here

Part number: AP4369560

Ok, so I retrieved the tech manual and went through the various tests.
The one and only fault code was F7E1 Basket Speed Sensor Fault which suggested going through test 3a.

I also did the manual test mode and checked all functions. The only problems I had were the Low Spin and High Spin. Both of which suggest running test 3a and 3b Drive System Shifter and Motor.

The first part of 3a is to remove The J16 connector and check resistance in pins 1 & 2. Now I wasn't sure if i was checking the plug on the harness or the blade pins on the control board so i checked both. The blade pins read 006 ohms and the plug on the harnes would momentarily read anywhere from 800 - 1957 and then read 1. The requirement was to read between 2k and 3.5k.

So I followed both paths ( correct values and out of range). The out of range path stated to check the connections to the shifter. They were good. Next step was to check for continuity of all pins in the plug at the shifter assembly. All checked good. Finally, if there was continuity in all pins then the shifter assembly needed to be replaced.

Incase I messed up the resistance readings I followed the correct values path as well. Next step was to check for 120VAC from pins 1&2 at the control board for the J16 connector. Voltage was good. Following along, the next step was to check the shifter switch DC voltage at pins 1&3 on the control board for the J2 plug. It is supposed to read +5 VDC when in SPIN and 0 VDC when in AGITATE. My reading never changed from +5 VDC. No voltage switch leads back to checking the lower harness connections and continuity, which was good. This then recommends replacing the shifter assembly.

Just incase, I also checked the Optical Sensor. I checked pins 3 and 4 on the control board for the J2 plug for +13 VDC. Reading was good so the next step was to activate the Tachometer Verification Mode. There was no reading in the mode which once again leads to the lower harness/ check continuity/ replace shifter assembly sequence.

So I guess I need to replace the Shifter Assembly. Can one of the experts please direct me to the correct part to buy? I can't seem to find it when I look up my model number. Also I know a couple other people are having the same issues, hopefully my explanation helps them (if an expert wants to double check what I've done if they can that would be awesome).

Thanks for the help and your time.

This is a very high failure item in these washers.

Whirlpool W10006355 Actuator - AppliancePartsPros.com

Eric

My maytag centennial mvwc400xv0 is about 37 months old and stopped spinning during a wash cycle. It did work on drain and spin for a few times, but quit spinning all together. On the advice of this forum I troubleshoot with the shift actuator in mind. In the manual test mode it wouldn't spin, so I checked the resistance at the 1 and 2 pins on the actuator. It was nearly a closed circuit instead of the 2k-3.5k ohms specified. I bought w10006355 from the local appliance shop for $62, installed it, and just completed a full wash rinse and spin cycle. NICE!

Thanks for the great forum.

hi I have a Maytag centennial commercial series washer that when you wash it will wash everything down to the ending spin cycle I went down to check on it and the spin light was just flashing check the Towels inside because the lid lock was unlocked and the Towels were soaked at this time I switched the washer to drain and spin and the washer finished the job I had towels in the load so I am unsure if the towels made the washer unbalanced that this proceeded down, of not spending.

My model number is : MVWC200XW1C11822156

I'm trying a small clothes wash to see if that it finishes the job with things that will make the washer unbalanced.

I also had the washer on large setting in heavy duty mode don't know if that is the issue so now I'm trying regular wash medium cycle to see if anything changes

any insight would be greatly appreciated