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Works fine for 24 hours, then warms up to room temp. Can get it working again by shutting off freezer temp control for a minute, then resetting it. Then it fails again the next day, about the same time. Triggering forced defrost (hit light switch 4 times in 8 seconds) causes compressor and fans to stop, but they never restart. Have to unplug power for 60 seconds to get it working again. While in forced defrost mode, shutting off/turning on freezer temp causes compressor and fans to run for 5 seconds, but then they shut off again.
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What is running/ not running when it fails?
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Originally Posted by: richappy  What is running/ not running when it fails? Both fans (and I assume the compressor) are running when we notice the freezer is warming up each time. I turn the freezer temp to off and both fans stop. After a minute or so, I turn the freezer temp back to 4, and both fans start up again, and the freezer temperature drops back to 18degF over the next hour or so. I suppose the compressor could have stopped working if it overheated and has thermal overload protection, but it works just fine after I cycle the freezer temp control off and back on again. Also, if I don't intervene, the refrigerator never goes back to cooling again.
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Seems like a bad adaptive defrost board if your fridg has one, if not a bad control module.
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As richappy said sounds like an adaptive defrost board problem as it is the only electronic part in the unit. Here are your parts Parts for SXD25NL - AppliancePartsPros.comThe bad news is that it is obsolete. See the attachment for a tech sheet that I think includes a wiring diagram that is the same as your unit at least as far as the defrost board, see page 6. I am not 100% sure that it is the same and I cannot find a sheet for a SXD25NL. It also has wiring diagrams of units in this series that use a defrost timer, see page 9. In all of them the compressor and it's fan are wired in parallel so when one is on the other should be on. Since you said that the condenser/compressor fan is on check that the compressor is on. You can usually hear it but also should be able to feel it vibrating. What is the freezer temperature after it has run for 3 to 4 hours? A normal freezer temperature is 0 to 5 degrees F. Also does the unit ever get to the point where it starts to cycle the compressor? Is it possible that you are catching the unit shortly after a defrost cycle? If the defrost thermostat stays closed after the ice/frost is melted off of the evaporator coils then too much heat is generated and this will warm up the freezer compartment. This does not seem to 100% match your symptoms but may be a possibility. |
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Originally Posted by: denman As richappy said sounds like an adaptive defrost board problem as it is the only electronic part in the unit.
The bad news is that it is obsolete.
See the attachment for a tech sheet that I think includes a wiring diagram that is the same as your unit at least as far as the defrost board, see page 6.
I am not 100% sure that it is the same and I cannot find a sheet for a SXD25NL.
It also has wiring diagrams of units in this series that use a defrost timer, see page 9.
In all of them the compressor and it's fan are wired in parallel so when one is on the other should be on.
Since you said that the condenser/compressor fan is on check that the compressor is on. You can usually hear it but also should be able to feel it vibrating.
What is the freezer temperature after it has run for 3 to 4 hours?
A normal freezer temperature is 0 to 5 degrees F.
Also does the unit ever get to the point where it starts to cycle the compressor?
Is it possible that you are catching the unit shortly after a defrost cycle?
If the defrost thermostat stays closed after the ice/frost is melted off of the evaporator coils then too much heat is generated and this will warm up the freezer compartment.
This does not seem to 100% match your symptoms but may be a possibility. Hi Denman, richappy, A quick search on ******** turned up three brand new ADC boards, the cheapest of which was $200.00. I ordered it, put it in, and now the only time the freezer temp goes above freezing is for a few minutes during a defrost cycle, which is happening about once a day. Also, the compressor and fans quit running when the defrost cycle starts, something that should happen, and that wasn't happening before (they kept running constantly, even though the activation of the ADC board relay should have temporarily disconnected them from power as that power was applied instead to the heater). I'm a bit concerned about the freezer average temp, though. With the freezer temp control set to 4 out of 7, it settles in at 19degF and stays there. I'll try turning it up to 5 or 6, to see if it will get down to 5degF. I do get compressor cycling off every now and then, but that's pretty infrequent. However, things seem to be working OK otherwise, and I'm really pleased at how easy the ADC board was to install. I think the schematic that you provided is very close to what I have, and it's nearly identical to one you posted previously for another Amana sxd2 model. I'm thinking about leaving a voltmeter connected across the D and T spade connections on the ADC board, to see when and how long the defrost termination thermostat stays shorted vs. open when I trigger a defrost cycle with the door/light switch. Since the defrost heater is clearly working and the new ADC board seems to be as well, that's the third of the 3 parts that would cause the heater to be on after the frost is melted. Thanks for the help - much appreciated! :) ChuckR
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If the defrost thermostat does not open when the frost is all removed from the evaporator coils too much heat will get intro the freezer.
I am assuming that you have the freezer rear cover back in place.
If you are checking it with this not installed that would also cause problems. |
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Haven't yet had a chance to monitor the defrost terminate thermostat, but I have not had to take off any covers or panels so far, except for the kick panel in front (to access the ADC board). The fact the the compressor runs pretty much all the time and the freezer temp bottoms out at 20degF, even with the temperature control set to 6/7 or 7/7, makes me think I have a leak or inefficient refrigeration (failing compressor or needs refrigerant recharge).
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You have to remove the cover in the freezer so you can inspect the evaporator coils. |
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Yeah, I've been avoiding that - the icemaker is in front of the evaporator, and it looks like a lot of stuff might have to come out to get the evaporator cover off. <Groan>
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