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Hello there! ! ! Please help. My washer has a leak under the center of the tub so I ordered a TUB AND BEARING REPAIR KIT. I tried to lossen the nut (using a spanner wrench) but it is really hard. Is this nut a reverse tread or regular (can loose to the left or counter clockwise). I dont like to force it harder. After lossening the nut what next. Please help step by step in replacing my tub seal. THANKS
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Rank: Member
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I loosen to the right and found that the problem is not the washing machine tub bearing and rubber seal it is the tub stem seal and hub assembly. The seal spring are too loose and the lip of the seal are already worn. :)
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Rank: Member
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richappy,
thanks, it will help me putting it back when i receive my parts. I opened already yesterday.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Good luck with it, I used a steel rod to pound out the sleeve bearing that was stuck to the tranny, a groove in the tranny facilitates this, I also would use turbine non-detergent oil on the bearing.
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Rank: Member
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I have a new problem on my washer. Before was leaking, fix it by replacing the assembly seal and nut. Now the problem is, it become noisy when spinning (high revolution). I thought it is the tub and bearing seal but not. I removed all the tub (inner and outer) and try to spin at high speed and right the noise is in the bottom of the trans. I think there's a bearing at the post of the transmission. Please help to specify the problem.:rolleyes:
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Rank: Member
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Washer is working properly. It become noisy than before. Is it the two bearing in the CLUTCH, BRAKE & BELT Diagram, part number 1 & 2. If the bearing are the one causing the problem (noise), is there any new or special tools in replacing the bearing and can I use different bearing (not a maytag) as long as same dimension (ID, OD, & Width). Want to know the specifications for this type of bearing. THANKS
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Rank: Advanced Member
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That is a special half round bearing # 2 in the diagram, you will need to pull out the brake package to get to it. Remove one of the 8-32 screws and match it up with 6 8-32,1 1/2 long screws. You will need these to facilitate removing the brake housing, it is under 200 lb pressure from the brake spring. Just replace all the screws, one by one, then carefully loosen them all so the lower brake housing moves down and releases tension on the spring.
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Rank: Member
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RICHAPPY - thanks for the advice.
The # 2 in the diagram is okey and the # 1 is in bad because there is rust on it. Can I change these with regular bearing from the store as long as the ID, OD and width of the bearing are the same. By the way the brake package has no screws in the housing. The housing edge is crumpled or bend to hold. When assembling the brake, do I have to grease or put oil on the spring, shaft and what type of oil to be used.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
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Never took one of these apart, usually the brake is not supposed to have oil on it, everything else just oil bearing surfaces, bearing should be pre-packed with grease.
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