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jjl04002  
#1 Posted : Sunday, July 21, 2013 6:49:34 AM(UTC)
jjl04002

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So my 1 year and 3 month old maytag bravos will not spin. If you start a load of wash, it will lock the lid, start the normal process, fill with water, empty water, etc. However during the spin cycles it stays stationary, although it does make some humming noise when it should be spinning. It will also not agitate or do the sensing where is rotates the basket.

I don't get any error code popping as it appears the washing machine thinks it is running fine.

I tried to remove basket to see if anything was stuck but I couldn't figure out how to get the top lid off to remove the basket. I thought there were some clips but I can't seem to figure them out.

Any help would be appreciated.
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fairbank56  
#2 Posted : Sunday, July 21, 2013 7:08:45 AM(UTC)
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You put it into service mode and there are no error codes?

Eric
jjl04002  
#3 Posted : Sunday, July 21, 2013 7:10:37 AM(UTC)
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I am unsure of how to put it into service mode. I figured something would just pop up. Do you know how to do that?
fairbank56  
#4 Posted : Sunday, July 21, 2013 7:14:33 AM(UTC)
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Tilt the machine back to gain access to the drive components. There may be a sound absorber that has to be removed. Remove the belt guard and check the belt and that the nut holding the main drive pulley is tight. There should be a manual up inside the cabinet. It will tell you how to get into service mode to check for error codes and to troubleshoot the washer. If the belt and pulley nut are ok I can give you some further information. These washers are very problematic with a host of common problems.

Eric
jjl04002  
#5 Posted : Sunday, July 21, 2013 8:18:50 AM(UTC)
jjl04002

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I checked the belt, and it looks OK. I spun both pulleys and the basket moved either way.

I managed to get into error mode and I think it lists the last 4 errors. Starting at Cl and rotation clockwise I get:

F7 E7: Motor unable to reach target RPM

F5 E1: LID switch fault

F7 E1: Basket speed sensor fault

F7 E5: Shifter Fault
fairbank56  
#6 Posted : Sunday, July 21, 2013 8:33:25 AM(UTC)
fairbank56

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That's what I figured. The shift actuator is a very high failure item on these washers. The lid switch is probably ok.

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Eric
jjl04002  
#7 Posted : Sunday, July 21, 2013 8:41:57 AM(UTC)
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Is there a way to confirm this is the issue? Or given the information is it fairly certain this is the problem?
fairbank56  
#8 Posted : Sunday, July 21, 2013 8:59:28 AM(UTC)
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There is a test procedure for it in the manual (tachometer verification) but these things have been known to pass the test yet still fail in actual operation. As I said, it is a very high failure item. If you buy parts from APP and they don't fix the problem, you can return them. If it does pass the test, it may be that the motor fails to run. During the test, you rotate the basket by hand while in actual operation of course, the motor is driving the basket. If the motor doesn't appear to rotate when it should, look for broken wires at the capacitor connection, and at wire tie-down points in the wire harness run from the motor and at the coil of wire that you see under there. Loose connections and broken wires are common problems. Look closely at the capacitor for cracks/splits/holes. Another common failure item. Hate to tell ya but this washer design is a piece of junk. It is the basic design for many different models sold under various names (Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Roper...etc.) Almost daily complaints about them on the various appliance forums. The design has only been out for 3 years.

Motor current does pass through the lid switch and you did get an error for that but usually, you will get the flashing lid lock lamp if it fails. You can test it with a multimeter.

Eric
jjl04002  
#9 Posted : Sunday, July 21, 2013 11:40:10 AM(UTC)
jjl04002

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Hey Eric,
Thanks for all of the help.

So I tried a quick experiment, and had my wife hold up the washer while I turned on the spin cycle. I look off the sound cover and the belt between the motor and the basket.

When the washer began sensing mode, the actuator moved and then the motor pulley began to spin. Following this, the drain tried to pump and then nothing really happened during the spin cycle.

I tried the same experiment with the belt on, and nothing spun. It would appear that there is too much friction to move the basket.

So this experiment tells me that the motor is working and is getting signals. It also tells me that the actuator it at least powered.

My questions:
Would a broken actuator still move?

Is it possible there is too much friction somewhere, and if so where would one expect this to be? The basket it a little hard to turn, but it isn't anywhere near frozen.

Regards,
-Jeff

P.S. I have also seen that this washer is a POS now that I have been looking around, but not that I own it, there isn't much I can do besides buy a new one....and that is admitting defeat ;).
fairbank56  
#10 Posted : Sunday, July 21, 2013 12:33:13 PM(UTC)
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Yes, the actuator does three things. It shifts the splutch between agitate and spin positions. There is a switch in it that closes when the shifter is in the agitate position and opens in the spin position. This tells the control board what position it is in. There is also an optical sensor that fits up into a hole in the bottom of the transmission case that is used to determine if the basket is rotating and the control board determines rpm based on the signal from the sensor. So it's certainly possible for the shifter motor that operates the splutch is working but the switch or sensor could be faulty. If the basket is really hard to rotate, there may be clothing caught between the tubs. You would have to take the top cover off and take the tub cover off to see between the tubs.

Eric
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