most likely you have a defrost problem. behind the back panel in your freezer section you will find the cooling coils. if the box is not defrosting you will have real heavy frost on the coils, enough so no air can flow through the coils. if air cannot move through the coils the freezer will not get cold enough and since the ref section borrows air from freezer it will get warm also. I base my assumption on the fact that when you unplugged it, you got a lot of water underneath. when the box defrosts it drains water into a pan at the compressor. the pan can only hold a normal amount of defrost water, after that it overflows. possibly heater bad, defrost thermostat bad, or defrost timer. since water freezes at 32 degrees, it is cooling. meats and ice cream need 0-5 degrees.

first take the back of inside of freezer while unit is still trying to cool. see if you have a lot of frost buildup. if not, we may have to go another direction.

to test defrost parts you will need an volt ohm meter.
to test defrost heater you will need to disconnect the heater and read ohms from one side to the other of heater. [meter lead on each of heater wires. set meter scale on low ohms scale. heater should read 20-40 ohms if good. the defrost terminator is at the top of the coils, [small, round and two wires. disconnect the terminator and check for ohms continuity. set meter on higher ohm scale to get reading. the terminator fits onto one of the lines on the cooling coils. the terminator must be on a frosted line to check. also look to see if the terminator is "damaged" in any way. if both of these check good, you have a bad defrost timer. defrost timer may be electronic. if it is, it is located in the ref. side at top.

a volt meter usually has an ohm scale on it. that is not a bad price. I bought an excellent craftsman meter from sears for about 15.00
digital meter