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Originally Posted by: ftmail  The switch is on, and I don't have a green LED on the side. The water does not fill ice tray although the water works in the door.
Currently the temperature is again fluctuating between 42 and 46 in the fridge and between -2 and 4 in the freezer. I already replaced the main board two times in the last two years... Is it time again ? Is there anything that GE is doing to fix what appear to be a design problem? Well, there are two different problems with your refrigerator. 1. Ice maker. Locate the water inlet valve on the back of the refrigerator (#800 on the diagram). Swap the wires between the 2 coils. Depress the water dispenser lever for a few seconds and check for water inside the ice maker. If there is water, replace the ice maker. It is not repairable. If there is no water, check the water feeding tube into the ice maker for any blockage. If the tube is clear, replace the water inlet valve. - The water inlet valve Part number: AP3192626
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Originally Posted by: saLLy59 Hi, I have read tons of things all over this website - I love it! Thanks so much! Do you happen to have one of these diagnostic mode description for the top freezer type? It seems almost all made were SxS, but mine is not. Model PTS22LCPARWW - made in 2003 I believe. I gather there are several difference. No damper for one. I am trying to determine possible evap fan problem - almost sure it is the fan itself. Thanks I've read all your conversations with Rick ( http://forum.appliancepartspros...an-pc-board-problem.html) and I believe his diagnostic is absolutely right. The evaporator fan motor is the culprit. I would recommend to keep the refrigerator off until you'll replace it to prevent very possible damage to the main control board. I don't think any thermistors are involved so far. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Well, there are two different problems with your refrigerator. 1. Ice maker. Locate the water inlet valve on the back of the refrigerator (#800 on the diagram). Swap the wires between the 2 coils. Depress the water dispenser lever for a few seconds and check for water inside the ice maker. If there is water, replace the ice maker. It is not repairable. If there is no water, check the water feeding tube into the ice maker for any blockage. If the tube is clear, replace the water inlet valve. - The water inlet valve Part number: AP3192626
Hi Gene, For the temperature fluctuating problem, I did not measure the actual temperature, but I read the display and it did appear to be correct as the frezer was still frozen. This morning, the frezer showed 13 degrees, and the stuff in the freezer started to defrost, so the readings apear to be ok. In the refrigerator area the temp was 45 today. I also cleaned the condenser coils yesterady and they were completely covered with dust. The diagnostics test result was the same as the day before and showed "Communication check between Dispenser Control and Main Control" - Failed. Everything else appeared to be ok. For the problem with the ice maker, after switching the wires between the two coils and pressing the water dispenser, water went into the ice maker tray, so it seems that I need a new ice maker.
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Remove the rear panel inside the freezer and check how the evaporator coils are covered with frost. Post the results.
Gene.
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I've got a GE ProfilePSC25NGSA BB that's been giving me headaches for almost three years. I'm pretty hard headed though, so I'm still fighting it. This is the first time I'll be trying the diagnostic tool (didn't know it existed). Coil in the refrigerator keeps freezing up. I've cleaned heat exchanger in the back, exchanged thermisters and changed the motherboard (which worked for about a year) but the problem is back again. Recently, it works well for about 2 weeks after unplugging for 24 hours to allow the coil to defrost, but then, eventually, it freezes over again.
I ran the diagnostics for the 0-2, 0-4, 0-6, 0-7, 0-8, 1-0, and 1-1, but there was no indication of a system failure. There also wasn't a Pass or Fail indication for the Dampers Test and the Fan Test. Should I run the 1-2 through 1-6 Diagnostics?
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The cause of the problem can be a bad fresh food thermistor, a bad fresh food evaporator thermistor or a bad main control board. You can check both thermistors from the main control board. Set an ohmmeter on a highest scale. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the J1 plug from the main control board. Measure the resistance between the wires connected to the J1-5 & the J1-1 and the J1-5 & the J1-2 at the plug. Measure the temperature in the fresh food compartment at the same time, using a good refrigerator thermometer. It will be good if you can measure the temperature at the fresh food evaporator too. Post the results. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric PSC25NGSBBB Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.comGene. Post the results.
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Very useful codes to use. Thanks. I ran all combinations, 0-2 had the return showing 61-14 instead of p or f. All others seem to be fine. I did not have water line plugged in. Please suggest what went wrong, I set the temperatures to be 0-38,it never came down below 4-40, even several days after adjustment.
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Make sure the condenser coils on the back of the refrigerator are clean.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Make sure the condenser coils on the back of the refrigerator are clean.
Gene. Thanks Gene! I cleaned the back completely with a can of air, it was not very dirty. There were some yellowish oil stains on the bottom pan. The compressor was kind of hot, and the white plastic fan to its right, mounted on the motor (?) shaft, was not running at all for the half hour I was cleaning and restarting the refrigerator. It is always the top shelf under the ice maker that did not keep food frozen, the lower shelves were fine. When I turned on the turbo cool, the temperature display on the refrigerator side turned into special characters, not digits. For a minute or so I opened the door, the freezer temperature display changed from 5 to 15. I don't think that is right. The lowest shelf inside the refrigerator side had some cold water sitting on the bottom pan. I saw rusty streaks from the coils. Any suggestion? Thanks again. The model was PSC25MSTASS, 2007.
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Originally Posted by: johnthompson [Thanks. I ran the diagnostics. It returned a Fail on "Communication check between Dispenser Control and Main Control". All other test seem to pass.
Thanks Hi. Revisiting this thread. Freezer works great, fridge won't go below 40 and struggles when full, even when set to 9. Tech came #5 thermister failed, he replaced the one in the fridge on the wall between it and the freezer. No change. Next day no change, still fails, he replaces the one behind the evaporator coil, and leaves. I run the other diagnostics and i got a fail on 0:3, like the original poster. Bad thermister and control board?
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