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Originally Posted by: mpact  My problem is the same as needhelp's. I have the same model and type #'s. I have remove the thermal fuse. Am I looking for any visible signs of an open fuse? Mpact, Not really, you'll need a muti meter Part number: AP5641751
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I have the same problem with no lights or power. I have checked the door switches, the thermal fuse, power to the control board, resistances...all good. According to the manual, I disconnected the panel ribbon from the control board, switched on the breaker power with door open, waited 5 seconds, closed door. No response from the drain motor. Manual says control board bad. I replaced the control board. Still no response. Could there be something else to check or could I have a bad replacement control board? Model GU2200XTSS3.
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Originally Posted by: mnelson51 I have the same problem with no lights or power. I have checked the door switches, the thermal fuse, power to the control board, resistances...all good. According to the manual, I disconnected the panel ribbon from the control board, switched on the breaker power with door open, waited 5 seconds, closed door. No response from the drain motor. Manual says control board bad. I replaced the control board. Still no response. Could there be something else to check or could I have a bad replacement control board? Model GU2200XTSS3. Mnelson, Yes there are a couple of other things to check. First test the touchpad ribbon/keypad circuits, with a multi meter(located on pg.2 of the tech data sheet). You may have an issue there Part number: AP3951364
Also verify the correct voltage at the control board, with the door latch switches open and closed. P2 (blk/wht ) to P6 (wht/blu) should have 120 VAC across the pins, whether the door is open or closed. P4(wht/prp) to P8(tan) should have 120 VAC only if the door is closed and the latch switches are activated(closed). If the voltages are correct and present at the proper times, then reset the control board, and replace the control panel.
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I actually tested the original panel and found the Delay switch open. So I replaced it. On your advice I tested the new one and it is all good. I tested the voltage at P2 and P6. At first it was 2.0 volts and P4 to P8 was 2.0 volts. I had 120 VAC at the thermal fuse and door switches, but I never checked them to P2, only to the chassis. But now no 120 at them. Going back to P2 and P6 I now get 12.7 VAC. Then out of the blue I have zero. No 120 nothing. I go to the junction box where there is zero volts, nothing. I now go to the recepticle under the kitchen sink. There I find the plug half out of the socket. A sink water line ran behind the cord close to the plug. Apparently, over time the vibration from the water line pulled the plug out. So there it is. I feel pretty stupid right now.
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Originally Posted by: mnelson51 I actually tested the original panel and found the Delay switch open. So I replaced it. On your advice I tested the new one and it is all good. I tested the voltage at P2 and P6. At first it was 2.0 volts and P4 to P8 was 2.0 volts. I had 120 VAC at the thermal fuse and door switches, but I never checked them to P2, only to the chassis. But now no 120 at them. Going back to P2 and P6 I now get 12.7 VAC. Then out of the blue I have zero. No 120 nothing. I go to the junction box where there is zero volts, nothing. I now go to the recepticle under the kitchen sink. There I find the plug half out of the socket. A sink water line ran behind the cord close to the plug. Apparently, over time the vibration from the water line pulled the plug out. So there it is. I feel pretty stupid right now. Mnelson, Great move, Great diagnosis/procedure. You found a voltage issue at the control, you traced it back to the power supply. That's the way it's done, sometimes. Great job.
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Hello all..
I'm having the same problem, model #DU1055XTVDB. The dishwasher stopped midcycle, no lights present, and the buttons have no effect.
The power seems to be hard-wired to a switch under the sink. I don't know if there's an outlet involved behind the dishwasher, and I don't know how it's supposed to pull-out.
I read all the other troubleshooting replies, but I don't know how to get inside the thing. Should I order the service manual that Joe posted in his first response?
I'm hoping it's just the thermal fuse, but I have to get to it first!
Thanks!
-Eric
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Originally Posted by: erf Hello all..
I'm having the same problem, model #DU1055XTVDB. The dishwasher stopped midcycle, no lights present, and the buttons have no effect.
The power seems to be hard-wired to a switch under the sink. I don't know if there's an outlet involved behind the dishwasher, and I don't know how it's supposed to pull-out.
I read all the other troubleshooting replies, but I don't know how to get inside the thing. Should I order the service manual that Joe posted in his first response?
I'm hoping it's just the thermal fuse, but I have to get to it first!
Thanks!
-Eric Eric, Purchasing the service manual, would be a "good idea" especially if you think you may need it. Accessing the thermal fuse, isn't that major a project. Remove power to the dishwasher(your situation sounds a bit strange) remove the inner door panel, remove the control panel shield, and there it is, to test, or replace. In most cases, the outlet under the sink, has two outlets. The upper outlet is usually for the garbage disposal and is controlled through the switch on the wall. The lower outlet is usually a constant 120 VAC power supply, and the dishwasher power cord is usually attached to it. Of course there is the possibility that there is a completely separate power supply to the dishwasher from the breaker panel, as well. You'll need to determine which power supply system you have before you start anything.
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Hi Joe...
Thanks for your reply. I guess what confused me were some postings that talked about "taking six screws out from the top..." and I wasn't sure the top of what. I found a video on YouTube which covered it pretty well.
The power situation may be strange, I don't have much to compare it too. Both the disposal and dishwasher have power cables going into a box with two conventional switches on it. One switches the power of and on to the disposal, the other (I assume) does the same for the dishwasher. So I should be able to turn the power for the dishwasher off from there.
I ordered the fuse, so when it arrives I'll have at it. I just hope there aren't any other fried wires to deal with, as has been reported in this and/or other threads.
Thanks again!
-Eric
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Originally Posted by: erf Hi Joe...
Thanks for your reply. I guess what confused me were some postings that talked about "taking six screws out from the top..." and I wasn't sure the top of what. I found a video on YouTube which covered it pretty well.
The power situation may be strange, I don't have much to compare it too. Both the disposal and dishwasher have power cables going into a box with two conventional switches on it. One switches the power of and on to the disposal, the other (I assume) does the same for the dishwasher. So I should be able to turn the power for the dishwasher off from there.
I ordered the fuse, so when it arrives I'll have at it. I just hope there aren't any other fried wires to deal with, as has been reported in this and/or other threads.
Thanks again!
-Eric Eric, Don't count on the wall switch turning off the power to the dishwasher. Make sure you unplug the power cord from the outlet, or turn the breaker off at the panel. Be safe... Not shocked ... Glad you found the video, they are pretty helpful, I prefer to remove the inner door liner, instead of just the control panel , there's more room to work, and if there are damaged wires, access and repairs are a lot easier. Repairing wires is not that major a deal these days, needed parts are available at any hardware or home improvement center or auto supply dealer. Connectors, terminals and crimpers are relatively inexpensive, if needed at all. Sounds like you'll do fine.
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Eric, Don't count on the wall switch turning off the power to the dishwasher. Make sure you unplug the power cord from the outlet, or turn the breaker off at the panel. Be safe... Not shocked ... Glad you found the video, they are pretty helpful, I prefer to remove the inner door liner, instead of just the control panel , there's more room to work, and if there are damaged wires, access and repairs are a lot easier. Repairing wires is not that major a deal these days, needed parts are available at any hardware or home improvement center or auto supply dealer. Connectors, terminals and crimpers are relatively inexpensive, if needed at all.
Sounds like you'll do fine. Well, I've come against a (hopefully minor) block... I got the dishwasher door cover off, but all the electronics are in a black box that, at first glance, seems to be secured pretty tightly to the door itself. There looks like there may be some tabs holding it on to the door, but I didn't have a chance to poke and prod it at all. I'm afraid if I force the tabs, they may break. Does this sound familiar at all? Thanks!
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