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Dryer was running fine, I opened it to get something out, went to close the door and restart it and it won't do anything, it's like there is not any power to it, but we've tested that and there is. Also had a repairman come and diagnosis and he said it was the pcb board. He wanted a extremely high amt to fix, and I love my lg dryer and wanted to fix it and not replace it. We decided to try to attempt it on our own and ordered the pcb board. Overnighted it, installed, still nothing. First question, is there something special you have to do after installing the pcb board that we may have overlooked? Second question, could it be something with the door switch, seeing how it was running, until I opened it? This momma's going nuts with laundry piling up! ;-(
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[COLOR="Blue"]it's like there is not any power to it, but we've tested that and there is.[/COLOR]
How and where did you test the power?
Did you test for 120 volts from Neutral to L1? This is the side of the line that powers the drum light and the control board.
You said "not any power to it" so I am assuming that the control panel is totally dead and that there is no interior drum light.
Is this correct? |
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We had one repairman come out and said we had power and that it was the pcb board. We replaced it and nothing. Another repairman came out yesterday and was baffled because he did test lines and one read ok, the neutral to L1 read 0 and L1 to the middle read 240.
Yes, you are correct that the control panel is totally dead and there is not interior drum light.
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Sounds like a power problem to me.
I cannot find any tech info on the given model number.
Also I am assuming that this is a North American unit.
If not then I cannot help you.
Another repairman came out yesterday and was baffled because he did test lines and one read ok, the neutral to L1 read 0 and L1 to the middle read 240.
You said "one read ok". I do not see anything that reads OK.
Neutral to L1 should be 120 volts.
L1 to the middle (if by middle you mean the middle connector on the unit's terminal strip) then that also should read 120 volts. The middle connector is Neutral.
Neutral (white) to L1 (black) should be 120 volts
Neutral (white) to L2 (red) should be 120 volts
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts. |
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Neutral (white) to L1 (black) read 0 volts
Neutral (white) to L2 (red) read 240 volts
L1 to L2 read 240 volts.
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Yes it is a power problem.
Neutral to L1 is the side of the line that powers the drum light, the motor and the control board and it should be 120 volts. Since you have 0 the unit is dead.
Where were your measurements taken?
If at the terminal strip try unplugging the dryer and checking power at the wall receptacle.
My guess would be that you have lost Neutral.
The L1 voltage is then feeding back through part/s in the dryer and that is why you see 240 volts Neutral to L2.
If the readings at the plug are
L1 to L2 is 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral are 0 volts.
Then switch off the breaker and check the wall receptacle.
If the readings at the wall are
L1 to L2 is 240
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral are 120 volts.
Then use resistance with the line cord unplugged to see that the line cord wires have continuity. Could be the Neutral wire in the line cord is open. |
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Okay...we have run new electric and we have power, lights, etc., go to start it and it acts like it wants to, but you hear a couple faint clicking noises and nothing. Any ideas? We're getting closer to a working dryer.
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When you go to start it, there are three faint clicking noises coming from the top left of the dryer, then if you open the door, there are again the faint clicking noises..thought maybe that info would help? Thanks so much!
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Who makes this dryer?
I cannot find any info on it. |
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It is a LG...in the back of my mind I keep thinking the dryer door switch. It is with opening the door that all my problems started.
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