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Hi, I have a Frigidaire professional series ceramic cooktop stove and just reciently have been having issues with baking. When preheating the oven, it now seems to take a very long time to heat up or doesn't heat up at all. I unplugged it one day and pllugged it back in after a few minutes and that seemed to work for that particular time only. I removed to bake cover today to see if the bake element gets red when preheating, it doesn't but the oven still beeped to say that the preheating is done. The broil element works, the control panels works fine, the cooktop works fine and i guess everything is still ok but the oven. I'm thinking its the bake element, the thermal fuse or the thermostate?? Or am i way off base?? Please help me resolve this issue
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Here are your parts Parts for Frigidaire CPLES399EC4 Range - AppliancePartsPros.comHere is a better copy of the wiring diagram. http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...assomption/318271934.pdfHere is a good site with info on checking the oven sensor. Look at 7, 8, 20 and 21. http://www.applianceaid.com/electric-range-repair-topics.phpIt sounds like the control board is toast. Since it shows that the oven is ready the bake element is probably OK as the oven thinks it is at set point so will not send power to the elements. The reason I think this is that unplugging it would have reset the board. Whereas unplugging it would have no effect on a bad sensor. I would check the sensor before ordering a board. The best way would probably be to unplug the unit and P5 at the control board. Then measure between pins 5 and 6 on P5. This will measure not only the sensor but also the two thermal circuit breakers that are in the sensor circuit. |
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Originally Posted by: denman  Here are your parts Parts for Frigidaire CPLES399EC4 Range - AppliancePartsPros.comHere is a better copy of the wiring diagram. http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...assomption/318271934.pdfHere is a good site with info on checking the oven sensor. Look at 7, 8, 20 and 21. http://www.applianceaid.com/ele...-range-repair-topics.phpIt sounds like the control board is toast. Since it shows that the oven is ready the bake element is probably OK as the oven thinks it is at set point so will not send power to the elements. The reason I think this is that unplugging it would have reset the board. Whereas unplugging it would have no effect on a bad sensor. I would check the sensor before ordering a board. The best way would probably be to unplug the unit and P5 at the control board. Then measure between pins 5 and 6 on P5. This will measure not only the sensor but also the two thermal circuit breakers that are in the sensor circuit. Before I try and get my hands on a meter, the oven sensor is used for both baking and broiling is it not? The reason I ask is that the broiling seems to work fine and its just the baking that is not????
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I got my hands on a multimeter, do you have an assembly drawing of how to remove the front panel to get to the control panel board to do these tests your asking??, I removed the 4 or 5 screws underneath the cooktop switches and i don't want to just pull it off and break any clips or if I might be missing any hidden screws.
Thanks,
all the help is much appreciated
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Sorry about the above message i now see the assembly drawing, so when you say to check the P5 at the board, your talking about the clock/timer part #20 from the assembly drawing??? And what kind of reading should i be getting or am i looking for continuity?? Sorry I am not an electrician of any kind, machinist by trade:o
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Ok Denman, i think i finally figured it out, so after checking pins 5 and 6 on the clock/timer board i got no ohm reading at all, so what can you conclude from this?? A new board??
thanks :confused:
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No it does not point toward a board problem.
If you look at the wiring diagram these connections go to the oven sensor so now you have to track down what is causing the infinite ohms reading.
There is the sensor itself which should measure as the link I gave.
Also there are two circuit breakers in the circuit, both of theses should measure 0 ohms. I think they are items 119 and 219 in the Body Parts section of the parts but I would double check this by tracing the wiring. |
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Your killing me man, but this is my best effort, the oven temp sensor reads almost a thousand at room temp. which is normal according to the link you gave. The 219, 2 red wires (thermostat) on the leftside (looking from the back) reads 0 ohms, now I can't tell from the drawing which of the two remaining sits higher, but the lower of the two on the rightside 219A(therostat), I think, which has two purple wires also reads 0 ohms and finally the top right corner 119 (switch)?, which also has 2 red wires has a reading of 142 ohms. So now I hope that we can come to a conclusion as to why my oven is not working, if I have to do more testing I'm going to probably electrocute myself
:confused:
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[COLOR="Blue"]which also has 2 red wires has a reading of 142 ohms.[/COLOR]
I would say that this thermostat is no good and needs replacing.
Now to kill you a little more.
Earlier you got infinite ohms when you checked the full sensor circuit (pins 5 to 6 on P5) but now all the components have at least some continuity so I do not know what is going on.
5 to 6 should have been the sensor resistance plus the 142 ohm thermostat resistance.
PS: I still think that the board is bad because it stays in preheat but does not heat. |
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So what I'm going to do is order the switch, the thermostat, and a board. I will start by replacing the smaller components and work my way to the board until she rises from the dead. I will let you know what happens as soon as the parts arrive and I can get to the deed.
Thanks again Denman:cool:
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