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denman  
#11 Posted : Wednesday, April 22, 2009 1:08:18 AM(UTC)
denman

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On most units you can remove the water inlet valve without pulling the unit.
May require a stubby screw driver and perhaps a scraped knuckle.

Have a shallow pan and some paper towels handy to catch the water that will drip out.
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lhntx  
#12 Posted : Wednesday, April 22, 2009 2:33:32 PM(UTC)
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I removed the toe kick and discovered that there has been a small leak in the right hand corner of the door causing water to seep under the hardwood parquet floors (which stop about 1/2 inch under the dishwasher and are the reason that the unit is so difficult to get in and out) and this caused the toe kick on the adjacent cabinets to rot out (another project for another day). I was able to remove the water pump and check the screen - and there was nothing in there, so I tried to run a cycle to see if I could hear anything. The water fills, then a click and the water shuts off, then an approx. 2 second hum like something is trying to start, then a pause for about 10 seconds, then another 2 second hum like it is trying again, then a pause for about 10 seconds, then a third attempt and then the display cuts off. So, what would be the next thing to click on after the water is in ? As I said earlier, I have no idea how or tools (other than a volt meter) to test any of the electrical components. I can then press the start button again and a "2" displays and the unit drains for 2 minutes then cuts off.
denman  
#13 Posted : Wednesday, April 22, 2009 4:33:28 PM(UTC)
denman

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Sounds like the motor is trying to start.

Could be it is shot or jammed up
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lhntx  
#14 Posted : Wednesday, April 22, 2009 7:25:33 PM(UTC)
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That's what I was thinking, too. Is there a way to test if it is jammed and to unjam it? I guess that I might be DW shopping this weekend. :rolleyes:
denman  
#15 Posted : Thursday, April 23, 2009 12:05:42 AM(UTC)
denman

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Just open it up from inside the dishwasher, may be something as easy as a piece of glass etc. jamming the impeller.
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lhntx  
#16 Posted : Thursday, April 23, 2009 3:20:05 PM(UTC)
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I removed all of the racks and then all of the interior stuff until I got down to the round disk that comes up from below (I assume that was the impeller - its about 1/2 inch thick w/ vent like things on the side and about 6 inches across. The spray arm was hooked to it). I was about to turn it very easily. At this point I'm thinking that it would probably be easier to just replace the whole thing, especially since the door gasket is leaking, too. THanks SO MUCH for all of your suggestions!! I really appreciate it.
coffel19  
#17 Posted : Wednesday, June 24, 2009 8:02:18 PM(UTC)
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I was happy to find someone with the same problem, unhappy that he/she gave up before the solution was found.

I have a Maytag Quiet Series 300 MDBH970AWW with the same exact symptoms. Has anyone found the solution?
slmerritt  
#18 Posted : Friday, July 25, 2014 1:33:32 PM(UTC)
slmerritt

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Alas, links to the Maytag tech sheets do not work :( Any hope of getting to that info? I have the same problem as mentioned above.
denman  
#19 Posted : Saturday, July 26, 2014 2:20:15 AM(UTC)
denman

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slmerritt

What is your make and model number?
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jugglerdancamp@gmail.com  
#20 Posted : Monday, September 7, 2015 7:12:44 PM(UTC)
jugglerdancamp@gmail.com

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There are NO LIGHTS on the panel - it latches closed fine. Dead as a doornail. Worked as recently as last night pushing the start button (without any lights on the panel). The lights seem to have either blown out or just stopped working earlier in the year.

Is the board going. (Little by little - lights first, now the power to the machine?)

I have looked at a few previous posts but those folks had lights on their panel working, I do not.

Thanks for any help!
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