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My problems started a week ago with my dishwasher. Originally, I purchased it from a Sears outlet, and it has traveled cross country (but worked fine for 10 months afterwards). Well, last week, I noticed the soap door wouldn't open during a cycle. The first time I thought I had something preventing it from opening. So, I ran it again, and it didn't open again. (That night, I also ran the Sanitize function.)
When my husband (auto mechanic and general handyman) started looking at it, he noticed that all of the buttons on the right side of the membrane stopped working. The heated dry was on, and couldn't be turned off. The Delay worked, start, and cancel all worked. So, I ran normal cycles with the dispenser open, to at least have some functionality.
He took the control board out, and one of the transistors was blown. You could see a burn mark in the plastic box that holds the board. He had some at work, soldered a new one on, and brought it home. Plugged it in, and still had no functionality of the right buttons or the dispenser door. Figured we'd buy a new control board here in the future when we had the $150 to put into it, but would run it with the door open for the meantime.
Last night, I went to run a load, and I had to hit the start button a few times for it to run.
Well, tonight I went to run it, and the start button and the delay start (was going to use that to cheat) wouldn't work at all.
The husband has just taken the board out, and the new transistor that he soldered on was blown as well. Husband says the transistor that is blowing is TR-4, which says it controls the dispenser.
What the HELL?! Please help, so frustrated! Do I need a new wax motor AND a new control board? Is there something else underlying that is causing this all to go bad? This dishwasher is only 3 years old, and has never had any issues. In fact, I am in love with it (until this week......)
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Originally Posted by: Discoteka My problems started a week ago with my dishwasher. Originally, I purchased it from a Sears outlet, and it has traveled cross country (but worked fine for 10 months afterwards). Well, last week, I noticed the soap door wouldn't open during a cycle. The first time I thought I had something preventing it from opening. So, I ran it again, and it didn't open again. (That night, I also ran the Sanitize function.)
When my husband (auto mechanic and general handyman) started looking at it, he noticed that all of the buttons on the right side of the membrane stopped working. The heated dry was on, and couldn't be turned off. The Delay worked, start, and cancel all worked. So, I ran normal cycles with the dispenser open, to at least have some functionality.
He took the control board out, and one of the transistors was blown. You could see a burn mark in the plastic box that holds the board. He had some at work, soldered a new one on, and brought it home. Plugged it in, and still had no functionality of the right buttons or the dispenser door. Figured we'd buy a new control board here in the future when we had the $150 to put into it, but would run it with the door open for the meantime.
Last night, I went to run a load, and I had to hit the start button a few times for it to run.
Well, tonight I went to run it, and the start button and the delay start (was going to use that to cheat) wouldn't work at all.
The husband has just taken the board out, and the new transistor that he soldered on was blown as well. Husband says the transistor that is blowing is TR-4, which says it controls the dispenser.
What the HELL?! Please help, so frustrated! Do I need a new wax motor AND a new control board? Is there something else underlying that is causing this all to go bad? This dishwasher is only 3 years old, and has never had any issues. In fact, I am in love with it (until this week......) Discoteka, The issue with your keypad and LED lights is in the control panel/ keypad assembly Part number: AP4459540
and the control panel will need to be replaced. The burnt TR4 triac on the control board would usually be due to a faulty dispenser solenoid or the wires to the solenoid could be pinched or shorted. The solenoid should have a resistance of 280 to 340 ohms resistance.If the solenoid is at fault the dispenser will need to be replaced, as individual parts aren't available Part number: AP4455014
Machine manufacturers Do Not recommend control boards be repaired or "re built" and you should consider replacement of the control board Part number: AP4588346
The tech sheet and wiring diagram is attached to the back side of the kick plate or the front frame assembly. You can check the keypad ribbon circuits and resistances of the components to verify the operation of components.
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