My GE Profile washer (2006) agitates and drains, but it won't spin. Actually, it won't start spinning. I took the front off and have the top situated so that I can spin the basket myself with the lid "closed." If I start it spinning during the spin cycle, it will continue spinning and sometimes actually accelerate. I even got it up to a full final spin earlier today with a very small load.

I can hear it click and actually start trying to spin, so I'm pretty sure it's not a timing or lid switch issue.
It spins if I give it a shove and it agitates just fine, so the motor is working.
It has a clutchless motor, so it can't be the clutch.
It fills properly, drains properly, and starts trying to spin once drained, so I don't think it's the pressure sensor or a blockage in that tube.
It had been leaking from the bearing/tub seal area, so I replaced those parts already.

Could it be anything else but the transmission at this point?

The transmission is still under warranty, so if I have a GE tech come out to diagnose and replace it, I can save the $200 for the tranny, but it'll still cost $90 for the service call. Which is sad, because I can do that replacement myself.

So my second question is: Is there any way to avoid the service call, but still have GE honor the warranty on the transmission?

Thanks in advance!

I just simulated a heavy load by slowing the empty basket with my hand while in spin mode and the motor, pulleys, and transmission were doing nothing. Then I let go and the basket started spinning along with everything else.

I can say for certain that there's no clothing stuck and the tub bearing is fine becasue I completely took the machine apart to replace the tub bearing a little over a week ago. I just tried rotating the motor pulley by hand as you described, and it rotated just fine.

I should probably mention that the washer has been sitting on an unlevel floor for much too long, and one of the tub straps at the top had broken. It's level now and the strap has been replaced, but I imagine that can't have been good for the transmission.

I ran the 6 minute final spin cycle and the lower transmission housing was pretty hot. The machine is pretty loud in spin mode. Does that also indicate a bad lower bearing?

I would suspect that the warranty would not cover damage caused by water leaking into it. It is possible to tear the lower transmission apart, replace the bearing and lube the ramp clutch mechanism however I doubt you will find a tech that has done it or willing to do it. Iv'e done a couple of them but it is not known as a routine service procedure. GE does not sell parts for the transmission however the bearing is readily available elsewhere. If you have good mechanical skills and experience, you could do it yourself or you could just replace the transmission. You have to take the machine completely apart to do it.

Eric