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Runs normal but doesn't spin/drain, but also...
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Joined: 2/11/2013(UTC)
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To date I have replaced: the belts, the timer, the tub bearing and stem seal kit (cleaned all the components), replaced the brake assembly with a confirmed good salvage part. What it does now: starts and runs through the agitation cycle normally (like it did before), but when it gets to the spin cycles it starts up and then the thermal overload kicks out and it stops.
Belt tension is normal. To test the transmission I took the belts off and I can spin the main pulley easily CW from the bottom. When I spin it CCW from the bottom the transmission also starts to spin. Doesn't take much effort either way, in fact better/less effort than it did before I replaced the brake/clutch and tub bearing/stem seal.
After I replaced the tub bearing and stem seal kit, I started the spin cycle (no water or clothes in it) and let it run for a few minutes, as recommended by many service techs. It started the spin cycle a bit hard but spun up fine and finished the spin cycle.
I put it a medium load of light clothes. Started fine and agitated normally. But when it got to the first rinse/spin cycle it started up, again a bit hard, and then quit. I suspect the thermal overload switch is now too sensitive, or the belt tension is too high. Although I can easily squeeze the midpoints of the belts together. The Water pump is fully to the right of the adjustment slots.
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Hello,
Make sure the motor is moving freely in the carriage.
If there is nothing wrong then possible the motor itself is bad.
Gene.
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Yes the motor moves very free on the carriage. But I have suspected the motor itself is simply "tired" and drawing higher load than it should. Doesn't have the starting torque to handle anything more than an empty dry spin drum. Any clothes, water or additional weight in the spin drum and it can't spin up.
I doubt it is the transmission because it does all the other functions fine. And like I said, I can easily rotate the main pulley from below in both directions. Before I replaced the brake/cutch and tub bearing it turned much harder when I rotated the pulley CW looking from the bottom.
Are there values to check for motor winding resistance and a,perage draw under load?
Thanks for all the help! The local Maytag parts shop says this older Maytag IS worth fixing because they aren't made like these anymore and they can last easily 30 years and more.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You are absolutely right. Old quality is priceless. Check out your local parts shop prices and return policy. APP price for this motor is $149.19 and you can return it within 365 days. - The motor Part number: 12002353
Gene.
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After replacing all the parts listed above, only the motor and tranny remain as likely causes. But I got to thinking if the belt tension is an issue. I adjusted the water pump belt tension to be much more loose, and I found that loose on the water pump belt tension is WAY better than even snug. The machine has now completed two full cycle wash loads, a medium load of dress shirts and a medium load of jeans. However, both loads came out way too wet. The washer is still running water into the tub during the final SPIN cycle. Per the logic diagram here, the FILL & RINSE (cam 10 or 12) includes water for the final rinse cycle. Then, SPIN & SPRAY cycle (cam 4, 6 & 8)for one minute again with no water, before the final SPIN cycle (cam 4) for four mintues with NO water added. Mine continues to spray water through the entire SPIN cycle on any setting. Leads me to think the cam setup is wrong on my replacement timer. I wonder if there is a special indexing position the timer has to be in when installed. That, or I have a defective timer.  http://********************.us/.../maytaglogicdiagram.jpg/
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Did you inspect or replace the brake rotor bearing? Fits on top of the pulley and pushes up to release brake during spin. The pump shouldn't have to be all the way to the right for proper belt tension. The belt is typically quite loose. You check the tension while holding the motor in the forward position (drive belt tight). The specs I have for the motor are 3-4 ohms for the start winding, 2-3 ohms for the slow speed winding and 1-2 ohms for the normal speed winding. 7 amps max current draw during spin startup and 4-6 amps while spinning full speed depending upon load in basket. The drive belt is supposed to slip during spin startup. This slippage acts as a clutch. There is also a clutch in the transmission used during spin. In spin mode, the pulley rides up the transmission input shaft and pushes up on the brake to release it while pulling down on the transmission input shaft engaging the clutch. One problem that occurs with this transmission is the pin holding the stop collar above the input pinion gear shears off and then the clutch does not operate properly and the shaft can be pulled down preventing the brake from releasing properly. Anyway, keep plugging away and figure it out. Definitely worth fixing this machine.
Oh, BTW, according to the timer chart, there is supposed to be a spin/spray during spin after wash and spin after rinse in the regular and delicate cycle but only after rinse in permanent press cycle.
Eric
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Yes, the brake rotor bearing is good and properly lubed. I feel everything with the motor, belts, brake/clutch and tranny is good now. Learned an awful lot on this machine now that I've gone through it and I'm definitely keeping it running for many years to come.
Thanks for the specs on the motor resistances and amp loads, that is great info to have.
Thanks too about the logic info. I contacted the seller on the timer I installed and he is sending me a replacement. We'll see what results I get from that. But I feel close to having this project done and good ol' washer being dependable (and easily repairable) for decades.
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Rank: Member
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All is back to normal. I installed another new timer and all cycles and functions operate normally again. The timer goes through the full cycle, rinse/spins properly and spins the final cycle as expected. Guess the cheapo "oem" timer I replaced earlier was just that, cheapo. Or, there was simply something wrong with an out of the box oem part, no warranty.
As of April 30th I have now done ten loads of various settings, and the washer functions entirely normal. In fact, I'd almost say it goes through the complete wash cycle a bit faster than it has for years. That, or I'm just more in tune to the machine now.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/11/2013(UTC)
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Thanks everyone for offering guidance and suggestions. My faithful Maytag is back in full service and now I know the machine quite well. Even getting to the point that I can read the logic diagram reasonably. Something to be said for fixing things rather than just junk it and buy a new machine.
The local Maytag shop owner said the older Dependable Care Maytags are well worth fixing and keeping active. He has seen many of them go 30, 40 years or more in service. Not sure that claim would hold up for today's modern machines.
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