On march 3rd I ordered a Thermal fuse kit for this dryer. I replaced the fuse as I didnt have time to replace the Hi limit switch at the time. Well the fuse blew yesterday. I cleaned all the traps/vents/front assembly so there was no blockage before I replaced the fuse. Well I looked today and everything is clear. I was going to quick replace the hi limit switch but one of the blades is no where to be found on the hi limit switch and I have no idea if it was broke when I recieved it or not as I didnt take the time to replace it while I was in the dryer. Anyways what else could be causing this dryer to blow the fuse's other than lint buildup since there is ZERO lint build up in this thing. I have had this dryer 7 or 8 years. Not sure the exact yearage since I have only lived in this house 8.5 years. I just ordered another fuse kit but would like to know all the "issues" to look for besides a blockage. The exhaust fan spins freely as well.

Oh forgot to add that this dryer hasnt been drying clothes as "quickly" as it used to. It used to dry them in 65 min now it takes 100 min to dry a load. Should I also replace the coil?

I do not have a wiring diagram for this dryer so my comments are just general and not specific to this unit

I was going to quick replace the hi limit switch but one of the blades is no where to be found on the hi limit switch and I have no idea if it was broke when I recieved it or not as I didnt take the time to replace it while I was in the dryer.
Not quite sure what this means?

The HiLimit thermostat should have been replaced when the thermostat was replaced as the old one may be too close to the fuse in it's operation temperature also it's contacts may be sticking closed. The way it should work is: lets say your cycling (main) thermostat contacts weld together then the unit runs on the HiLimt. You would notice that the clothes were hotter than normal and this gives you a chance to repair the unit before the fuse blows.

Did the unit run on low heat settings?

Below are a couple things to check:

1. Check that the blower wheel is clean and that it is properly attached to the motor. Sometimes they can strip out and actually slip on the shaft some so you do not get enough air flow.

2. Check the heater. Remove both wires from the heater and check with a meter usually about 10 ohms. Then measure from each connector to the frame should be an open (infinite ohms) If 0 ohms you have a grounded element (element has sagged or broken and is touching the case) and the element should be replaced. This can cause the element to run on high all the time.

3. Check the cycling thermostat. Contacts should be 0 ohms at room temperature and should open when heated up. I usually just heat the face with a soldering gun (could also just heat up the face on a stove element), to see if they will open up. Note the thermostat has 4 contacts.
Two are the actual contacts, the other two is an internal heater (usually around 6,000 ohms), used to give different dryer temperatures.

4. On most dryers the air is being sucked through the heater and pushed out the exhaust. So if you have an air leak in the system, it sucks in cold air since the cycling thermostat is on the blower it holds the heater on causing the unit to overheat. Examples would be bad drum seals or a bad door seal etc.

5. Check that the filter screen is clean. If you use fabric softener it can coat the screen, drastically reducing air flow. Clean it with soap and water.

Hope the above makes sense!!

If you do not own one I would suggest you purchase a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

So in essance what you are saying is that the hi limit switch not being replaced when I replaced the fuse is why the thermal fuse most likely blew again?

No, all I am saying is that it is a possibility.
It should not blow the fuse unless the high limit has a problem.

Also you have another problem because the unit should not run on the high limit even if the high limit is good.

sorry I missed this comment before. This is an electric dryer.

Ok I cant believe it didnt dawn on me about my blower motor seal. The part that seals the blower assembly to the front frame. It is all crushed on the bottom but it was like that the first time I took this dryer apart in March. Seems odd that it would last this long without blowing the fuse. What it looks like is when it was put together someone didnt have the dryer up high enough so when they put the front door assembly on they crushed the bottom part of the seal (meaning not the bottom bottom but the uppper bottom where the hole is). I guess I didnt think about it because thats the way the dryer looked the first time I took it apart so "assumed" that is ok.


I am assuming thats where I could be getting cold air. Its really hot air in the dryer and luke warm air coming out of the vent.