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chrisph  
#1 Posted : Saturday, April 13, 2013 1:43:56 PM(UTC)
chrisph

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Joined: 4/13/2013(UTC)
Posts: 2

I followed the diagnostic test mode instructions. They tell me nothing. I checked for continunity on the thermal cut-off, hight limit thermostat, heater element, and thermal fuse -- they all indicate continunity. The thermistor has a resistance of 12 oms (spelling).

I disconnected the power supply to the heater coil and tested the power supply -- there's no power to the heater.

How do I check the control board or the centrifugal switch? What would be the cause of no power to the heating element?

Thank you for your time.
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copelist  
#2 Posted : Saturday, April 13, 2013 4:50:04 PM(UTC)
copelist

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Joined: 4/13/2013(UTC)
Posts: 2

I have just spent 4 happy hours inside my Q0 version of that same dryer. The service manual says that the Thermister reading should be around 19-20K at room temperature. 12 OHMs is very low. Unless your reading is 12K (12000) OHMs I suspect that your thermister has failed.

I also used a digital thermocouple (handy feature of the DVM I'm using), put the probe in the exhaust outlet (through a tiny hole) and ran it at each of the termperature settings. Mine was way out of spec and just failed at the medium and high settings (heated up and then took 15 minutes to turn the heater on again). When I measured my thermister HOT, it read > 500K OHMs. Once it hit around 40 degrees (C), it jumped back into the expected range. This lets it work a low temps but fails at higher temps (or so my theory goes). If you are indeed reading 12 OHMs vs 12K OHMS, you need to spring for the 28 bucks and get a new thermister.


Not sure how you are measuring power to the heater coil but no power will be applied unless the logic board energizes the heater relay (you hear a faint click). If your thermister is shot the logic will think the thing is already running above temperature and keep that relay de-energized so - no power.
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