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Sorry if this is a repeat post. I've seen a lot of people online with this exact same problem, but I have no seen any real solutions. Hopefully, I provide enough details for someone to help.
The washer started off just leaving wet clothes in at the end of a wash. I turned the dial to drain and spin and that seemed to work for a while. I started to notice that when the washer went to the spin cycle, the lid lock LED would blink. Cancelling the load by holding start/pause for 3 secs would cancel the load but the lock LED would continue to blink and the lid remained locked. It would finally unlock on its own after a few minutes.
I thought maybe the load was unbalanced, but even running it with an empty tub resulted in the lock LED blinking and preventing the washer from entering the spin cycle. I replaced the lid lock with part number W10404050, which should be the newer version of this lock. However, this did not fix the problem. Is it possibly the shifter that is the problem?
I ran a diagnostics test, but I do not know how to interpret the blinking lights. Here are the results: All 5 lights blink followed by all 5 lights blinking again. When I turn the dial one click clockwise, I get Sensing-Rinse-Done (1st, 3rd, and 5th lights) followed by Done blinking alone. One more click clockwise and I get Sensing-Spin (1st and 4th lights) followed by Done blinking alone. Next click of the dial gives me Sensing-Rinse-Spin-Done (1st, 3rd, 4th, and 5th lights) followed by Done blinking alone. Finally, after one more turn, I get Sensing blinking alone followed by Rinse-Done (3rd and 5th lights) blinking together. After that, each turn cycles through these same error lights.
I would appreciate any help I could get with this problem. I would prefer not to buy a new washing machine, but I will if the repairs are much too expensive or if the repairs won't last.
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Most likely it's the shift actuator but this washer design has had many problems. I would first unplug/replug all the wiring connectors. Tilt machine back for access to connectors for motor, capacitor, shift actuator and pump. You might want to pull the pump and make sure nothing is caught in there. Also do the connectors at the control board. Check for error codes as per tech manual and reset them. Perform the calibrate function. If nothing works, replace the shift actuator. It is a very high failure item on this washer design. If you buy it from here and it doesn't solve the problem, you can return it. Eric
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56  Most likely it's the shift actuator but this washer design has had many problems. I would first unplug/replug all the wiring connectors. Tilt machine back for access to connectors for motor, capacitor, shift actuator and pump. You might want to pull the pump and make sure nothing is caught in there. Also do the connectors at the control board. Check for error codes as per tech manual and reset them. Perform the calibrate function. If nothing works, replace the shift actuator. It is a very high failure item on this washer design. If you buy it from here and it doesn't solve the problem, you can return it. Eric Fairbanks and StinkyQ, I just went through the same scenario, a couple of weeks ago, with a similar washer, with the same/similar complaint. The consumer tested and replaced several components, conducted most of the diagnostic and test modes, and all checked fine. I finally contacted someone at the manufacturer, discussed the situation, and the indications, their recommendation was to test or replace the actuator Part number: AP4514409
and the lower washer wire harness, Part number: AP5177849
Apparently, there could be an issue in the harness. I'm still waiting on a response from the consumer I was working with, but thought I would try and help.
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 Check for error codes as per tech manual and reset them. Perform the calibrate function. I am not sure how to reset the error codes or how to perform the calibrate function. I did unplug and re-plug all of the connectors, but that did not help. Were you able to interpret the error codes based on the lights I mentioned that were blinking? I think I may just have to get the shift acuator from here and hope that replacing it works. Thanks for the help.
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You are getting multiple error codes. F5E1 lid switch fault, F3E1 pressure sensor fault, F7E1 speed sensor fault, and F0E5 off balance load detected. The tech manual should tell you how to clear the codes. I do not have your manual, there are slight variations between models. You can try going into service mode and when you have all the LED's flashing, press and hold the start button for 3 seconds. This may clear the codes. You need to read the manual. It will also tell you how to do the calibrate function. Don't worry too much about the codes. If a part fails, the washer won't go through it's proper cycles so error codes can mount up even though there isn't really other failed parts. Clear the codes, run the calibrate and try the washer. If you just get the flashing lid lock LED again, immediately check the error code again before doing anything else.
Eric
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Originally Posted by: stinkyq22 I am not sure how to reset the error codes or how to perform the calibrate function. I did unplug and re-plug all of the connectors, but that did not help.
Were you able to interpret the error codes based on the lights I mentioned that were blinking? I think I may just have to get the shift acuator from here and hope that replacing it works.
Thanks for the help. Stinkyq, You do have to program into the diagnostics and test modes, in order to reset the codes or calibrate the control, Unplugging the connectors or power cord, doesn't solve the issue. Just remember, you have to review and follow each step of the procedure and you have limited time(6 seconds) to do it in. The trick is, to review the instructions thoroughly before you start anything, and follow the instructions precisely. As long as you're sure you were in the diagnostic/error code program, the light pattern you described would indicate a motor sensor error, motor speed error, (F7 errors), this would indicate an issue in the actuator assembly Part number: AP4514409
Also check the lower washer wire harness Part number: AP5177849
and make sure there are no loose connections, twists, kinks, or frayed areas on the wiring. If the wiring is OK, replacing the actuator, and recalibrating the control, should solve the issue.
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You had 4 fault/error codes. That is the maximum that it will show. They are indicated from most recent to last. New errors will overwrite older ones once you are up to 4 errors. Errors can be caused by faulty connections, which has been a problem on these washers, hence the advice to check them and the advice to clear the codes.
Eric
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You were right about holding the start/pause button for a few seconds to clear the error codes in diagnostics mode. The owners' manual doesn't say anything about entering diagnostics mode, understanding the codes, or recalibrating anything. Instead, I just took my chances and ordered the shift actuator and hoped it worked.
I reset the error codes, changed the part out, and tested a wet towel on drain and spin. It made it through to the end of the cycle without any problems whatsoever. I hope this means that the problem is fixed for good (or until the part breaks again in a few months).
Thank you so much for your help. I had been looking all over the internet seeing people with the same problem and a lot of "experts" saying they need to change all of these expensive parts. You saved me a lot of money because I was going to buy a new washer but the store didn't have the one I wanted in stock.
For those of you who have this same problem with the Kenmore/ Whirlpool/ Maytag washer that won't spin and a lid lock LED that just blinks, try changing the shift actuator. I wasted money changing the lid lock, but chaging the actuator worked and it only cost about $50 and got here a day after ordering online.
Thanks again for all the help.
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Originally Posted by: stinkyq22 You were right about holding the start/pause button for a few seconds to clear the error codes in diagnostics mode. The owners' manual doesn't say anything about entering diagnostics mode, understanding the codes, or recalibrating anything. Instead, I just took my chances and ordered the shift actuator and hoped it worked.
I reset the error codes, changed the part out, and tested a wet towel on drain and spin. It made it through to the end of the cycle without any problems whatsoever. I hope this means that the problem is fixed for good (or until the part breaks again in a few months).
Thank you so much for your help. I had been looking all over the internet seeing people with the same problem and a lot of "experts" saying they need to change all of these expensive parts. You saved me a lot of money because I was going to buy a new washer but the store didn't have the one I wanted in stock.
For those of you who have this same problem with the Kenmore/ Whirlpool/ Maytag washer that won't spin and a lid lock LED that just blinks, try changing the shift actuator. I wasted money changing the lid lock, but chaging the actuator worked and it only cost about $50 and got here a day after ordering online.
Thanks again for all the help. Stinkyq22, I wish I would have found this thread before I too bought the lid lock and realized that wasn't the issue. I am hopefully finding a store tomorrow and getting the actuator and seeing if that does the trick. Here's to hoping. I will report back if it works and hopefully help someone else with dirty laundry piled to the hills.
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Originally Posted by: stinkyq22 Sorry if this is a repeat post. I've seen a lot of people online with this exact same problem, but I have no seen any real solutions. Hopefully, I provide enough details for someone to help.
The washer started off just leaving wet clothes in at the end of a wash. I turned the dial to drain and spin and that seemed to work for a while. I started to notice that when the washer went to the spin cycle, the lid lock LED would blink. Cancelling the load by holding start/pause for 3 secs would cancel the load but the lock LED would continue to blink and the lid remained locked. It would finally unlock on its own after a few minutes.
I thought maybe the load was unbalanced, but even running it with an empty tub resulted in the lock LED blinking and preventing the washer from entering the spin cycle. I replaced the lid lock with part number W10404050, which should be the newer version of this lock. However, this did not fix the problem. Is it possibly the shifter that is the problem?
I ran a diagnostics test, but I do not know how to interpret the blinking lights. Here are the results: All 5 lights blink followed by all 5 lights blinking again. When I turn the dial one click clockwise, I get Sensing-Rinse-Done (1st, 3rd, and 5th lights) followed by Done blinking alone. One more click clockwise and I get Sensing-Spin (1st and 4th lights) followed by Done blinking alone. Next click of the dial gives me Sensing-Rinse-Spin-Done (1st, 3rd, 4th, and 5th lights) followed by Done blinking alone. Finally, after one more turn, I get Sensing blinking alone followed by Rinse-Done (3rd and 5th lights) blinking together. After that, each turn cycles through these same error lights.
I would appreciate any help I could get with this problem. I would prefer not to buy a new washing machine, but I will if the repairs are much too expensive or if the repairs won't last. This sounds exactly like my problem. I've read through your entire thread and am ready to try this on my machine. My model is a Maytag Bravos #MVWX500XW1. Does your model have an LED display on the front of the washer? Mine does not. Does anyone know if there are internal indicators to show the error codes? I'll have to look inside the machine for a manual, but I'm wondering if I should go ahead and order a shift actuator? Did you also replace the lower washer wire harness as recommended?
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