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turbofreek  
#1 Posted : Friday, March 22, 2013 2:23:53 PM(UTC)
turbofreek

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Just had my washer crap out last week. Now my dryer did the same. Wont start. Start button blinks when I push it to start. Thats it I checked all the components fuse, thermostat, motor windings. All check out ok. I replaced the main control and still the same. I got a motor now and checked the ohms and they are both the same. I don't know what to do here. Is my main board I got bad? Is it the motor?
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turbofreek  
#2 Posted : Friday, March 22, 2013 2:33:39 PM(UTC)
turbofreek

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Nobody wants to take a crack at this? Something to chase? I don't see any wire issues either. I'm a car guy by trade/obssession
turbofreek  
#3 Posted : Friday, March 22, 2013 4:43:37 PM(UTC)
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I have power to the motor on both sides. Yet no start. By passed the door and belt switch. Still the same blinking start button.
Motor ressistance is 2.2 and 2.4. I did notice I have 110 across the relay. Shouldnt that be no reading if the relay is ingages?
denman  
#4 Posted : Thursday, March 28, 2013 2:24:42 AM(UTC)
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I cannot find any info on the given model number.
Please check it.

Also who manufactured the unit?
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
turbofreek  
#5 Posted : Thursday, March 28, 2013 5:02:00 AM(UTC)
turbofreek

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Medb800vqo

Its a maytag bravo.
denman  
#6 Posted : Friday, March 29, 2013 2:08:04 AM(UTC)
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Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag MEDB800VQ0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet

Try to get into diagnostics to see if an error code will come up.
[COLOR="Blue"]
I have power to the motor on both sides.[/COLOR]
I am not sure what you mean by both sides.
Also where are you measuring and what is being used as reference (neutral etc) ?

[COLOR="Blue"]Motor ressistance is 2.2 and 2.4. I did notice I have 110 across the relay. Shouldnt that be no reading if the relay is ingages?[/COLOR]
Yes the NO to Common on the relay should drop to 0 volts when the relay closes. So either something is holding the relay off or it's contacts are shot.
I doubt that the new board is bad.
It is not unknown that a replacement board is bad but it is very odd that you get exactly the same fault on both boards.
File Attachment(s):
MEDB800.pdf (799kb) downloaded 4 time(s).
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turbofreek  
#7 Posted : Friday, March 29, 2013 5:11:58 AM(UTC)
turbofreek

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It wil go into diagnosic mode. It gives no fault codes. It will go to COO and just sit there.

If a thermistor is bad wouldn't it still run for at least a minute? I've checked ohms at the board and at them. The one on the exhaust housing is 7k ohms.

As far as power st the motor. The two outside red wires. I get 110 from the top red to ground. I turned the dryer on so I could try to back track to where power is suppose to be. Why I came to the board being the culprit.
denman  
#8 Posted : Friday, March 29, 2013 10:21:05 AM(UTC)
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[COLOR="Blue"]It gives no fault codes. It will go to COO and just sit there.[/COLOR]
I am not sure what COO means.
[COLOR="Blue"]
If a thermistor is bad wouldn't it still run for at least a minute? I've checked ohms at the board and at them. The one on the exhaust housing is 7k ohms.[/COLOR]
Not necessarily.
It may monitor the thermistor resistances all the time.
The resistance does look low according to the chart.

[COLOR="Blue"]The two outside red wires. I get 110 from the top red to ground.[/COLOR]
This will be for the heater voltage.
You were probably looking at @M which is connected directly to L2 voltage.
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turbofreek  
#9 Posted : Friday, March 29, 2013 10:31:21 AM(UTC)
turbofreek

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Coo as in pre steps to co1 to start the service cycle.

And I was checking power to the motor.
denman  
#10 Posted : Friday, March 29, 2013 11:16:10 AM(UTC)
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[COLOR="Blue"]And I was checking power to the motor.[/COLOR]
Not sure I understand the above.
The red (L2) is power to the heater thru the centrifugal switch mounted on the motor. It is not for the motor.

Power to the motor is
5M Neutral
4M Power (L1) thru the belt switch, thermal fuse and the control relay on the board.
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