This loyal horse have been working with minor problems through his entire life , I must say that it is in mint exterior conditions (no rust) , but since last year many problems arise , I change the water pump (noise) , the timer (plastic broken) , some knobs . Since I change the timer the motor doesn´t work at all. The water valve opens and start filling the basket, it ends when the level is OK , but nothing happens till the timmer advance to the drain cycle and refill again , never wash , never spins . At first guess I would think in the motor , but there might be some switch or the electronic board WH12X10026 that could have been damaged when the previous timmer broke into pieces(some strange noise was heard at that moment inside the panel control) , as I don´t have any manual , service bulletin , nor schematis , it´s very difficult to trace any problem. Could I ask some help in finding this data to see if I can solve the problem . Let me say that in our country I wouldn´t find any replacement for this board so I have to order from your company (if it´s available). Do you have any sugestion regarding how can I test the motor to discard the possibility burnt unit .?

Thanks for any help , any information or brochure that you think I can buy or gather would be very much appreciated.

Regards

Hugo

Thanks Eric for your answer , The motor was runing fine before , although the client told me that last year did have a problem with the motor (didn't start the motor), he send the washer to a service shop (probably he kept the information that should be under the control panel) , I would like to power the motor directly but without the wing diagram I don't feel very confident to do it (this is a 220v appliance) , regarding the electronic board , I test every component (diodes,caps ,transistors) and are OK , although I would like to test it powering it , but again I need th circuit to see what are the 2 relays in the board commanding and other outputs of this board. I will take a photo of the circuit board and send it .

Thanks again

Regards


Hugo

The timer has a drum in it that is rotated very slowly by the timer motor. The drum has 8 cams on it with high points and low points that activate the 8 switches in the timer. Each switch has three contact "blades". That's what the "B" stands for. The middle blade, also called the active blade, is common, the other two are the "upper" and "lower" blades, also called passive blades. The degree per increment is the number of degrees that the timer rotates for that increment. Each increment is approximately 3 minutes but varies due to cam engagement.

So, in your example, R5 is connected to active blade 7 (common), R4 is connected to the upper blade and R6 to the lower blade. As the drum rotates around, the active blade is either connected to the upper blade, the lower blade or neither, depending on where you are in the cycle.

I believe this is the wiring diagram for the U.S. version of your washer. Does it seem to be the same as yours?

Eric

The OL is a thermal overload switch that will open if the motor is overloaded. It should self-reset when the motor cools but apparently yours has failed or the internal wiring to it has failed. You should normally have continuity between M1 and M2. You could apply your test cable across M2 and M6 for high speed operation and M2 and M5 for low speed operation. Of course, you must also apply power to the start winding between M3 and M7. Iv'e had a couple of these motors apart but don't recall any specific info on the overload switch.

Eric

If the motor runs fine when bypassing the overload on the bench and in the washer doing loads of laundry, then you could certainly use it but I would only do so if you are always going to be nearby and can monitor it while it's doing a load of wash. If this is a job you are doing for someone else, I wouldn't do it. If something went wrong, there is nothing to protect the motor and wiring in an overcurrent situation other than your circuit breaker which may or may not trip depending on the load. You don't have to bridge M1 and M2. Just cut the yellow wire and the orange wire a few inches from the motor, strip the two yellow wires and the orange wire that goes up to the lid switch and splice the three together, leaving the orange wire from M1 disconnected.

Eric