Zinger, So far everything sounds normal, and operational. You did need a new infinite switch. If the burner remains on "HI" Regardless of setting, this indicates the "cycling" switch and circuit contacts have arced together and the switch needs to be replaced. When you use the dual element burner, the "low" setting(right side of switch) operates the inner ring only. When you select the "HI" (left side of the switch) this operates both the inner and outer elements, and they cycle off and on in unison. Right now, you'll need to check and make sure the Red L2 wire is attached to the P2 terminal of the new switch. (The L2 red will be "hot" 120 VAC as long as there is power applied to the range, and common to all the infinite switches). The other two red wires will attach to the number two(2) terminal of the switch (these red wires will enter the wiring harness junction connector and attach to the heater elements in the cooktop). If the wiring at the new switch is not correct, you wont have any L2 power to the element and it wont work. Thanks

Zinger, Everything sounds and looks correct. Here's another check to make, using a multimeter, set for 240 VAC ( You need to be careful, this is a live voltge test) re apply power to the range, at the new infinite switch check across P1 (dbl black wires) and P2 (double red wires) switch terminals, you should have 220 to 240 VAC wether the switch is off or on. This will confirm you have the proper power supply and the switch is wired correctly. You can then turn the switch on low and check for 220 VAC across red and tan at the element, then high setting red to yellow. If you have the correct voltage, then replace the element, if not, you'll need to trace wires back to the switch.

Jhcrowman, Thanks
We appreciate your comments, We're glad we were able to help you out.

Thanks for the update of your experience, it will come in handy for other DIY's reviewing the Repair Forum and taking on a similar repair.

Great Job !!!

Thanks Again,

Mdeudy, Presumaly we're working with the


Part number: AP4008679

Hopefully the new switch was not damaged, but we'll see in a minute.

You'll be working with both, the left rear "dual" infinite switch and the right front infinite switch.

At the left rear dual switch the double red wire attached to the N terminal on the original switch, will be attached to the P2 terminal of the new switch.

At the right front infinite switch the double red wires attached to the L2 terminal, will need to be separated. The red wire common to all the infinite switches will attach to the L2 terminal of the right front infinite switch. The remaining red wire, which can and should be traced to the left rear element, will need to be re terminated (install terminal on end of wire), and attached to terminal 2 of the new dual infinite switch.
When you're done wiring the new dual infinite switch :

P1 terminal will have two black wires one end of the jumper wire and black L1 wire common to all the switches (one wire on each P1 terminal).

Terminal 4 will have the blue wire to the inner element ring attached to it.

Terminal 4a will have the purple wire to the outer element ring attached to it.

Terminal S2 will have the orange wire to the indicator light attached to it.

Terminal S1 will have the other end of the jumper wire from P1 terminal attached to it.

P2 terminal will have the double red wire, from the terminal block and common to all the switches attached to it.

Terminal 2 will have a single red wire from the left rear element sensor attached to it.

Once you're checked and ensured the wiring is correct, restore power to the cooktop and check the burner for proper operation.